Thursday, December 13, 2012

Guide to Clipping a Bird's Wings

Clipping a bird's wings the first time is not easy. You could injure the bird or even cause it to bleed to death during the wing clip. The first time I strongly suggest you professionally have the wings clipped and watch the procedure closely. This is a good way to learn how to clip wings. Each species of bird is trimmed differently. It is a safe procedure if you know how and have experience.

Larger birds such as Amazons and macaws need fewer primary feathers cut. Once the feathers are cut it is rare that they can fly, only glide down from where they are perched. Smaller birds such as a cockatiel are much more difficult to keep from flying and will need to have the majority of his primary feather clipped. Even then, the cockatiel is capable of flight; he cannot gain much altitude but can fly.

Some people will advise you to cut the feathers of only one wing. This is dangerous advice. Both sides need to be trimmed so the bird is balanced. If he falls or tries to fly off his perch, he needs to be able to glide down balanced, to prevent injury.

You will need someone to assist you in holding the bird and stretching out the wing. When you have gained experience and when you and the bird are completely used to each other, it is easy to trim the wings by yourself.

Arrange the tools you will need before you begin. You will need a pair of sharp claw cutters. Never use anything that has sharp points. The clippers must blunt ends. It is so easy to accidentally stab the bird, your assistant, or yourself. You will also need a pair of needle nose pliers, a few paper towels, and a pair of toenail clippers. Make sure the equipment you are using is clean. Have a towel to help hold the bird. You must restrict the bird so that he is not injured while flapping around. Parrots, especially large parrots, can bite and bite hard. Give a macaw a chicken bone to chew on if you do not believe me. They can take off a finger. You will need a cauterizing powder on hand to control any bleeding. (Their blood - not your blood). (Use direct pressure your own wound and clean it).

When working on your bird always act calmly, speak to him calmly, and move slowly. The idea behind the towel is to restrain him so that you can work on one wing at a time. Gently wrap the towel around him so that the opening is near the wing that you are currently trimming. Keep his face exposed so that he does not panic or smother. Remember the calmness that you employ now will determine your success at working on your bird later. Do not let him panic. Talk to him throughout the procedure in a calm voice.

The person holding the bird in the towel should firmly hold him behind the head and with the other hand; hold the bird’s lower body. The person cutting will gently stretch out the wing. First, examine the wing carefully for new growth feathers. Feathers, once they are fully-grown, are dead, like hair, and can be safely cut with no pain or bleeding. New growth feathers contain blood. These new feathers are known as blood feathers. Do not cut these blood feathers. The feathers once cut will act as a straw and siphon the blood quickly out. Bird's bodies have little blood so a bird cannot afford to lose much blood.

If you do accidentally cut a blood feather or if he breaks a blood feather accidentally you must act immediately. Use the needle nose that you prepared beforehand and pull the entire shaft of the blood feather, from the feather follicle. Pull the feather straight out. Immediately apply pressure with the paper towel. If the bleeding is not controlled with direct pressure and Kwik Stop get your bird to an avian veterinarian immediately. If you are afraid to pull out the blood feather, you should not be trimming the bird’s wings. Please leave it to a professional. It MUST be pulled out immediately.

The feathers that you are trimming are the outside feathers or primary feathers, in a small bird, you will want to trim most of the primary feathers. In large bird five to nine feathers are sufficient.

Identify each feather and cut the feather shaft as close to the wing as possible. If you cut closer to the wing tip the bird will have an aggravating feather shaft sticking out. Do not cut the wing, just the feather shaft next to the wing. Cut along the wing each long flight feather where the shaft meets the wing. Examine your bird carefully, do you see any blood?

Now that you are done with the feather trimming before you let the bird free, talk to him, and reassure him in a very loving voice. Let him free and give him his favorite treat. Spend some quality time with him and reassure him that you love him. If it is the first wing clipping watch him closely, he does not know he cannot fly.

Wings will grow back. Keep a close watch on feather growth and trim again before he is able to take flight. Many people lose their birds, when the feathers grow back, not realizing the feathers have grown back.

Clipping a bird's wings has one other advantage. You can bond with him much more quickly. Training the bird becomes much easier. If you are careful, trimming a bird's wings can have advantages and can alleviate much heartache.

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Wednesday, December 12, 2012

Guide to Miniature Horses

Miniature horses have always intrigued me. I grew up on a ranch, along with a lot of other animals we raised appaloosa horses, so I have always adored horses. Heck, as a young teen that was my main mode of transportation. You'd be surprised at how far I managed to get on horseback! A miniature horse can be a household pet (with certain health requirements - important needs that affect the respiratory system if kept indoors), outdoor/indoor, or strictly outdoor.

It is important if you choose to have a miniature horse as an indoor pet that they have time to play outside for fresh air, exercise, play, healthy sunshine, and their need to run around (essential for digestion). If kept as an outdoor pet the horse will need a warm shelter that has good ventilation.

The smallest miniature horse was 10 pounds and 12 inches tall when it was born. Her name is Black Beauty. Black Beauty is considered a dwarf miniature horse and is 18.5 at the withers which would be the area of the last hairs at the end of the mane.

The average lifespan of a miniature horse is 30-40 years. Along with their good nature and what seems the natural ability to guide, plus their longevity, they make outstanding guide animals or assistance animals; guide horses for the blind.

Make sure you acquire or buy a horse that has bright shiny eyes, looks alert, healthy coat of hair, and has a good disposition. Having a horse or foal examined by a veterinarian before you purchase is an extremely good idea.

Miniature Horse Care

All horses need extensive care that can be time-consuming. If you are interested in owning a miniature horse it is essential you have the time and resources to provide this care. Veterinarian care is expensive. They will need regular check-ups, vaccinations, dental care, and worming. Any animal could become ill or injured.

Horses need daily grooming including their hooves. The hooves need to be cleaned every three to four weeks (picked out, trimmed and sanded). The hooves will need to be trimmed on a regular base. This is normally done by a farrier.

The nutritional needs are a quality grain and hay no less than twice a day. Consider the size of the horse when planning their diet. You don't want an overweight or underweight horse. Perhaps a veterinarian experienced with miniature horses can set you up with a diet plan. Remember the need for exercise to aid digestion. A horse will enjoy grazing on pasture but limit the horses access to pasture that is green, long, and abundant, the horse can flounder which causes horrible pain and can even kill your horse.

Grooming should be done on a daily bases. It really is a special time between you and your horse. Grooming is an outstanding bonding time. Brush with the hair never against it. Horses shouldn't be bathed too often since it dries out the natural oils.

Truly a horse requires about the same amount of daily care as a pet dog if a dog is being taken care of properly.

You learned about the smallest horse, the biggest horse was a Shire horse (3,300 lb).

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Wednesday, December 5, 2012

Guide to Pet Rabbits

Rabbits can make a delightful companion. Rabbits purr when they are content. Rabbits prefer to sit next to you rather than be held. Of course, there will be exceptions to this generalization. Rabbits can be litter box trained. Rabbits are inquisitive, enjoy the interaction with you, and enjoy playing with toys. Plan to spend plenty of time playing with your rabbit, at their level, on the floor.

I raised blue satins long ago. I enjoyed showing them in different rabbit shows. They were affectionate but in a different sort of way than cats and many other animals. They are smarter than many people give them credit. I found them to be truly amazing little animals. Nothing much beats the feeling of a wiggly nose in the neck-shoulder. This is a body part you develop only when you have had a baby or when you have a pet rabbit.

Rabbit Information Rabbits live to be 7 to 10 years of age. Rabbits are crepuscular, meaning they are active at dawn and twilight and sleep during the day and at night. The oldest rabbit on record was 19.

Purchasing your Rabbit

Rabbits are often given as curiosity pets or bought on impulse. Many pet rabbits are given to shelters the shelters become overpopulated and the rabbit is put to death. Many “Easter” exotic pet rabbits that are given as gifts often end up at the local shelter. Consider adopting a rabbit from the local animal shelter. Adult rabbits are often easier to train than young bunnies. Other places where a rabbit can be purchased are from the local pet store, the local feed store, or even the local 4-H club.

Make sure the rabbit has bright shiny fur. The rabbit’s fur will reflect the health of the rabbit. Check the ears to makes sure they are not dirty. Usually, a residue in the ears is a sign of ear mites. Look in the nose and around the nose for matted fur and discharge. Check the rabbit’s teeth. The teeth should be clean and even. There is a genetic condition in rabbits called malocclusion where the teeth do not grow properly. If a tooth is only broken, do not be overly concerned because a rabbit’s teeth grow continuously.

Rabbit Cages

Rabbit cages should be good sized, the bigger the better! A rabbit cage should have room for the rabbit’s food dishes, litter box, toys, and plenty of room for exercise. Rabbits should have the freedom to run in at least a small area of your house. Leave his or her cage open so he can come and go as he pleases.

A cage should be the rabbit’s special place. A rabbit will mark their cage with a few pellets to mark their territory. This is not a breakdown in rabbit litter training. Respect his territory. Clean his cage while he is out of the cage. Allow him to enter and exit on his own free will. Gently guide him into the cage. Do not grab him to take him out of his cage.

Cages with only wire floors are not good for rabbits. Rabbits do not have pads on their feet and the wire floor will injure their feet. If you do have a cage with a wire floor provide a board for him to sit on. Keep the cage floor clean and dry. Keep the board clean and dry. Rabbits love the rabbit condominiums. These cages have two levels; the floors are connected with a ramp.

Allowing Free Run of the House

Rabbits can have free run of the house once they are trained. The house must be rabbit-proofed. If the house is not completely safe, the rabbit should have constant supervision the entire time he is out of his cage. The rabbit should be introduced to free- run of the house gradually. Once he is litter boxed trained, more area can be added.

Toys and Teeth

Rabbits need toys for mental stimulation and physical exercise. Rabbits love and need toys to chew on. Rabbits must have the means to keep their constantly growing teeth worn down. Specifically, the four front teeth top and bottom. Purchase rabbit chew toys to lend an assist. Chewing hay and such also helps keep the teeth worn down.

Rabbit toys should be safe. Rabbits can ingest plastic. Cardboard boxes are great to climb into, play and chew. Old telephone books are fun to play with and shred. Parrot toys make equally good rabbit toys. Rabbits love baby toys like sturdy plastic keys. Cat cubbies and condominiums with ramps and lookouts are great for rabbits. Save the large tops off laundry detergent and laundry softener bottles. Wash these tops well. The tops are wonderful to hold on to and haul around. Rolling large balls are fun. Rotate the toys often to keep the rabbit’s interest.

Nutrition

The primary diet of the rabbit usually is commercial rabbit pellets. I would recommend limiting or avoiding these pellets. Pellets were developed for the rabbit industry, basically with fast growth and weight gain in mind. The pet rabbit, which should be spayed or neutered, will gain too much weight on pellets. Provide the rabbit with fresh water daily.

Offer your rabbit fresh vegetables. Those that are especially healthy are dark leafy vegetables and root vegetables. Make sure there are a variety of vegetables offered each day for nutritional balance. Rabbits (almost always (love carrots but also the tops of carrots. Parsley is a goldmine of nutrition. Some leafy vegetables have oxalates such as parsley, spinach, and Swiss chard and should be given in moderation. Iceberg lettuce has no nutritional value.

The rabbit must have roughage/fiber for good health. Offer the rabbit, Timothy Hay. Hay will eliminate hairballs and other blockages and aids the natural digestive process of rabbits. Timothy Hay reduces the likelihood of urinary tract problems. A small amount of alfalfa hay can be offered. Unlimited amounts of timothy hay, oat hay, and grass hay should be available throughout the day. Rabbits need access to food 24/7. Remove the soiled hay daily. Rabbits do not need any animal protein nor is it good for them.

Litter Training

Litter training is easy. Simply place the box in the corner that the rabbit has chosen. It takes time and patience. In the early stages of training place, several boxes around the area the rabbit occupies. As the rabbit catches on to remove the boxes one by one, so only a few remain. Rabbits learn much easier as they get older. Be patient with the youngun; he will get it when he is ready!

Be careful what type of litter you use. Rabbits are different from cats in that they tend to ingest some of the litter. Clay litter is dusty and can cause pneumonia. Clumping litter is ingested and clumps in the digestive tract. Corncob litter can also be ingested and can cause a lethal blockage. Paper pulp litters work well. Litters made from aspen bark works well. Citrus-based litters work great but are hard to find and can be expensive. Straw can be a safe, inexpensive litter but needs to be changed often.

Rabbit manure is an excellent fertilizer so choose a litter that can be composted. Since rabbit pellets can be used straight on the garden without worries of burning the plants, the litter can be mulched right into the garden.

Accidents outside of the litter box should be cleaned with vinegar to eliminate the odor so the rabbit does not return to eliminate again. If the rabbit urinates over the edge of the litter box, try a covered litter box. The covered litter box also works when the rabbit kicks litter outside of the litter box. One thing that turns people off on exotic mammals as pets are the odor of their waste. This is a safe and a solution that works. Great odor control for small mammals Marshall Bi-Odor Internal Waste & Urine Deodorizer (8 fl. oz.) Bi-Odor Waste & Urine Deodorizer for Rabbits, Guinea Pigs, and Small Animals.100% natural supplement deodorizes your pet's stool, urine, and body odors. Just add to your pet's food or water daily. Recommended by top breeders and veterinarians. Available in most any pet supply.

Spaying and neutering

Pet rabbits should be spayed and neutered. Altered pets are healthier and make better companions. The act of sex stimulates ovulation in the female rabbit. Many rabbits are put to death in animal shelters – be responsible and spay or neuter. You won’t have a hormone-induced emotional rabbit if you do spay or neuter. Rabbits are social animals but cannot be with a member of the same sex unless they are altered. Rabbits, unless altered can become quite aggressive, because of hormones.

Female rabbits should be spayed at 6 months of age. Males should be neutered at 5 months of age. The surgery is safe but makes sure a veterinarian with experience in operating on rabbits does the surgery. The female should have both her ovaries and uterus removed. Removing the testicles through the scrotum is a safer surgery in males rather than entering through the abdomen. I have seen a few vets recommend this approach and the only thing I can think of, is longer surgeries equal more money. Please correct me if there is a good reason for this approach to neutering.

Please consider purchasing a rabbit from a local animal shelter. You will have saved a life. Above all, enjoy your pet rabbit.

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Conure Care Guide

The Conure is a small species of parrot that is every bit as friendly, adorable, and sweet as any other parrot. The conure is highly intelligent and they can become very animated. Many conures learn to talk very well and some conures only learn a few words. The average lifespan of a wild conure is fifteen years but many have been known to live as long as thirty-five years in captivity. I think with proper care, cleanliness and nutrition your bird can live well past the average lifespan.

The conure loves your attention! They are highly social birds, and socially complex birds, and need quality time with you. They love to play and can easily learn to do tricks.

I spent hours one day watching two hand-fed baby sun conures playing together. It was delightful. They also got very jealous when I paid attention to each of them, both attempting to get more attention than the other did.

They do enjoy the company of other conures. Unless you want fertile eggs it is best to keep the genders separate.

The downside of the conure is that they can be very noisy. They can screech rather loud so they may not make a very good pet if you live in an apartment or are close to neighbors. The Nanday Conure is one of the noisier conures.

There are many varieties of conures coming from many areas such as South and Central America, parts of Mexico and even the West Indies. They range in price according to popularity and rarity.

Sun Conure

The conure is available in a wide range of colors from the brilliant, sweet sun conure to red-headed, green mitred conure. Most exotic birds have interesting color combinations.

Purchasing a Conure

A conure should be purchased from a reputable breeder, supplier, or pet store. Never buy a bird that has been wild caught. Some varieties of conures are extinct or are endangered. Exploitation and habitat loss are the reasons for their extinction and endangerment.

The conure should appear to be healthy with smooth, bright feathers, bright shiny eyes, and no discharge from the nose. The vent should be clean and free from soil. Look at the bottom of the cage to make sure the droppings are firm and well-formed. The bird should be active and aware of his surroundings. Before you buy and bring home your bird, have him tested by an avian veterinarian. These tests should include a complete blood count, (CBC) Chlamydia Screen and a culture of the throat and vent. Make sure a signed veterinarian certificate accompanies the bird.

The best pet birds are the ones that are hand-fed babies. Hand-fed babies grow up to be outstanding pets. It is usually wise to choose a bird that has been weaned and is eating on this own. Some of us have been taught to hand feed, but unless you are experienced, this could lead to torn or burned crops, infections, and other problems.

Before introducing your new bird to your other pets they should be quarantined for at least eight weeks.

Cages and Accessories

The conure needs a big cage the bigger the better. Be very cautious about the amount of spacing between bars especially since conures are smaller than other parrots and could get their heads trapped. There should be vertical and horizontal bars. Conures enjoy climbing. The cage should not be round it should be square or rectangular. The conure needs to exercise his wings and it is much easier and a lot less dangerous in a square or rectangular cage.

Supply a number of perches of different diameters and textures. Having an assortment of perches helps maximize optimal foot health. Never place the perches above the food or water dishes. The bird will eliminate in its food or water and this can be very unhealthy due to bacterial growth. Watch perch placement in relation to the cage bars so that the conure does not wear his tail by brushing against the cage constantly.

The cage and accessories need to be kept clean and sanitized. Plenty of fresh filtered water should be provided daily. If the bird has soiled in his water be sure to clean the dish and supply fresh water more frequently.

Lots of toys should be available for your conure to play with. They need physical exercise and mental stimulation. They should also have lots of playtime outside of the cage. Rotate the toys frequently so they always appear fresh and new.

Be careful on the types of materials you use for a cage cover. Conures like to chew and they will chew the cage cover; producing hanging strings that could entangle and strangle the conure.

Health and Nutrition

Seed mixes and pellet mixes are a good beginning diet for a conure. Often time’s conures will pick out the sunflowers seeds and then only eat the sunflower seeds. Sunflower seeds are fattening. So it is better to pick out the sunflower seeds and offer them as rewards or treats. Some pellet mixes come in a variety of shapes and colors. Conures are more inclined to eat the pellets if they are different. Supplement the diet with lots of fresh vegetables, fruits, greens, and proteins. Always remove fresh foods from the cage after he finishes eating. These foods can spoil and you don’t want your bird to get sick. I feed my bird most any healthy food that we eat. They should never have chocolate, caffeine, avocado, or alcohol.

I prefer to keep my bird’s wing's clipped as long as they live in a home environment. Far too often they fly out a window or door, or into windows or mirrors. If they have free flight they can accidentally fall into open toilets or open pots of boiling liquids. Many pet birds have fallen into glasses of liquid; their broken-hearted family finds them dead. There are many dangers in your home.

If you do not clip their wings you will have to supervise them 100% of the time and be 100% certain there are no dangers in your home such as a glass of water, boiling pot of water, or thousands of other potential dangers.

There are toxic fumes in your home. Never smoke cigarettes around your bird. Never use Teflon around your birds. When Teflon is overheated is emits deadly fumes. Scented candles and perfumes can be toxic. Air fresheners are bad for birds. Birds breathe differently than mammals and many things can be deadly. In addition, keep all poisonous plants out of your home and away from your bird. Do not cut tree branches for your birds that have pesticides, toxins or that are poisonous.

Conures like most birds enjoy a bath. Use a bird bathing tub or save the bucks and use a shallow dish you have lying around the house. Gently wrap the bird with a towel until partially dried. The conure will finish the drying process by preening and flapping. Do make sure the room is warm before allowing your bird to become wet.

Above all else, enjoy your pet conure!

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Thursday, November 8, 2012

Guide to African Grey Parrots

Highly sensitive and clever African grey parrots compare in intelligence to a five-year-old child, a dolphin, or a chimpanzee. They mimic speech but are also capable of using language to communicate. They can precisely copy sounds. I don’t know how many times I have answered the ring of the phone only to find it had never rung, with the African Grey in the background laughing at me. This exotic pet has copied the sound of the ding of the microwave, the neighbor’s chainsaw, and a wide variety of other noises. Since cell ringtones, hands up, I give up. This Grey parrot also mimic behaviors and mannerisms.

There are two varieties of African Greys available to the pet owners, the Congo African Grey (CAG) and the Timneh African Grey (TAG). Many people have considered the Timneh African Grey parrot as inferior to the Congo African Grey. Both birds have the same capabilities for speech and both are equally as intelligent. The Congo African Grey is larger than the Timneh African Grey. The Congo Grey has light gray feathers and the Timneh Grey has darker gray feathers. The most striking difference is the tail. The Congo Grey has a bright red tail while the Timneh Grey has a brick red, maroon, or brown tail.

Congo African Grey Parrot

Photographs courtesy of Cedar Hills Birds.

So as you can see there is very little difference in the Congo Grey and Timneh Grey. They are both exceptional birds and both make delightful companion pets! African Greys normally have a gentle nature and are delightful little clowns. In fact, purchasing the Timneh Grey has one advantage; price! Because of the Congo Grey’s popularity over the Timneh Grey, it makes them much more expensive. The African Grey is a medium-sized parrot.

Purchasing Your African Grey

Always purchase any African Grey from a reputable bird breeder, pet dealer, or pet store. Always purchase a bird that is banded. A bird without a band could be an illegal, smuggled bird. The African Grey is endangered because of illegal trade and habitat loss.

I prefer to buy birds that are hand fed babies. If raised properly they usually make exceptional friends. Unless you are experienced with hand feeding babies it is better to buy one that is already weaned to solid food. It is so easy to damage and injure a bird while hand feeding.

When you purchase/acquire your African Grey Parrot make sure the bird has smooth healthy feathers and bright shiny eyes. Check his or her vent area to make sure it is not soiled. Check the bottom of the cage for droppings, making sure they are well-formed. It is a good idea to have an avian veterinarian to check the bird and run laboratory tests to ensure the bird is healthy. These tests should include a complete blood count, (CBC) Chlamydia Screen and a culture of the throat and vent. Make sure a signed veterinarian certificate accompanies the bird.

Be certain to quarantine any parrot you bring home, for a time period of at least eight weeks, keeping them separate from other birds in your home. This is true of any exotic pet or exotic pets.

Before you purchase an African Grey be sure to ask yourself why you are purchasing one. Are you purchasing him simply because of their excellent capabilities to talk? Some Grey Parrots will never talk. This doesn’t happen often but please don’t purchase just for this reason. Purchase because they are wonderful companion pets that are intelligent. You will want to spend large amounts of quality time with them. They are highly social and sensitive. Most African Grey parrots don’t learn to talk until they’re around twelve to eighteen months old, and may even take as long as two years.

You must learn to love parrots unconditionally. You can never punish a parrot. You must let a bird be a bird. Your relationship with your African Grey will be built on love and trust. You can establish boundaries but be sure to remain consistent with these boundaries. Establishment of these rules is effective, and a way to prevent potential problems.

Cages and Accessories

Some bird cages are a danger to your parrot one example, the bars may be improperly spaced. You will find screws and other tiny parts the African Grey will work loose, the parrot may attempt to ingest the small part and choke. Parrots will chew constantly. They will chew at the bars. The paint must be non-toxic. Parrots are notorious for opening birdcage latches. The latch must be of good design and secure.

Keeping the birdcage clean and sanitized is a very important issue. Many disinfectants are horrific to birds and that is why I highly suggest using a Chlorhexidine Solution. This solution is especially effective against the resistant germs that are running rampant today. It is even effective against the swine flu. Some cages are impossible to keep clean and even harder, to sanitize. Keep this in mind when purchasing a cage. Are there out of the way areas that get crammed with gunk impossible to clean?

The cage must be the proper size for the African Grey. Rectangular and square cages are much better than a round cage. Bird cages need to be secure and big, the bigger the cage the better. When I am around to supervise my African Grey I keep him out of his cage and on a playpen. Parrots enjoy their freedom.

Because of the African Grey’s advanced intelligence, the need for play, exercise, and mental stimulation is even greater. Provide a good variety of toys and rotate them often. Your African Grey needs your love and attention. Spending a great deal of quality time with your parrot will prevent many behavioral problems. African Greys get bored!

Provide several perches with different diameters for optimal foot health. I like hardwood perches; they withstand the abuse of a parrot’s beak!

Health and Nutrition

The African Grey needs a varied, healthy diet. He will need a balanced diet of seeds, sprouted seeds, nuts, vegetables, protein, and fruits. After the parrot eats his fresh foods, make sure to remove the leftover food from his cage, because they will spoil and make the parrot ill. Always provide the African Grey with plenty of fresh water. It is a good idea to buy a quality water filter and filter the water the parrot uses. The healthier the diet the stronger your parrot’s immune system. Don’t feed your parrot chocolate, caffeine, alcohol, or avocado.

You should provide your parrot with a birdbath or spritz him with a spray bottle, and wet him or her entirely. This encourages him to preen; keeping his feathers healthy.

The toenails need to be clipped and the flight feathers may need trimming to prevent your parrot from getting injured or escaping. The beak should be trimmed when needed. Check with an avian veterinarian before attempting these procedures the first time. Watch and learn!

The African Grey should have a checkup from an avian veterinarian once a year. He should also see a vet if he is ill. Parrots are notorious for hiding illnesses. They must hide their illness in the wild otherwise they will appear weak and become prey for other animals. Be prepared for the cost of taking your bird to an avian veterinarian!

There are many dangers in your home from which you will need to protect your exotic pet. To name a few of these hazards: fumes, chemical sprays, boiling pots of water, the coating on your pots and pans, poisonous plants, and open toilets. Parrots are the same as growing children; they are curious, excited to learn, and must investigate.

Always supervise your African Grey around other animals and children. Your parrot may play just great with your dog but you just never know what could trigger them injuring each other.

Keeping your African Grey Busy and Happy

I can’t stress enough the need for this intelligent parrot’s need for attention, mental stimulation, and play. Always provide your African Grey with plenty of toys. Spend plenty of time every day interacting with your bird. You can play with your bird in so many different ways. Just like a toddler, they will drop their toys off the top of their playpen. This is saying I want you to play with me! Please interact with me. After all, parrots are highly social birds in the wild. In captivity, you are their flock or their family!

African Greys are highly vocal in the wild. This is the parrot’s nature. If you want a parrot in your home you must accept this. They screech, squawk, sing, whistle, and make noise! You must let a parrot be a parrot! They will greet each morning with a variety of noises. They will say goodbye to the light with ear piercing noise. They will get excited periodically throughout the day and go into a song and dance routine.

But, if they continually screech and squawk something is amiss! They are bored and need more attention and more varying activities. You will find that they enjoy soft music. Remember that parrots hear a whole lot better than we do please keep the bass and volume down. Parrots need to chew; this too is part of their nature. Provide safe branches for your parrot to chew on. Provide toys that are made out of safe, non-toxic wood and lava rocks to chew on.

If you treat your African Grey with plenty of love and attention you will have a wonderful companion and friend for decades to come! Above all else, enjoy your African Grey!

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My Ferret Book Guides and Exotic Pet Books Guides

Exotic Pets: Family Guide Paperback and Kindle. Available on Kindle Unlimited!

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Thursday, November 1, 2012

Guide to Sugar Gliders

How to care for an exotic pet Sugar Glider. Sugar Gliders are a social animal and should not be raised alone. You must have more than one.

They are a marsupial much like an opossum. They rear their young in pouches like a kangaroo. Sugar Gliders can be adopted from sugar glider rescues. In fact, many people are unprepared when they purchase a sugar glider, and many gliders do end up in rescues!

Dietary Requirements

They cannot consume fat. The majority of their diet is fruit and vegetables (75%). They should receive protein (25%. They do need calcium.

These are the foods that sugar gliders like: strawberries, cantaloupe fruit jams, raisins, carrots, peas, low-fat turkey, and boiled chicken, dried fruit, apricots, peaches, pineapple, pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds, almonds, fruit juices, papaya, grapes, peaches, honeydew melon, pears, blueberries, corn, oranges, yams, sweet potatoes, peanuts (crushed), pine nuts, squash, hard-boiled eggs (leave the shells, cut the egg in half), Paw Paws, high protein baby cereal, assorted baby foods, low-fat yogurt (they especially like peach and blueberry), mealworms, wax worms, silkworms, small amounts of honey, dehydrated fruits and vegetables.

Since their food is fresh, the food needs to be removed from the cage frequently to prevent spoiling. Do not feed lightening bugs these can be deadly to many animals.

The much of their fluid intake is from the fruit in the wild. The sugar glider must have fresh water available at all times.

Vitamin deficiency can be a problem with sugar gliders. You should offer a liquid supplement in their drinking water or on their food.

Deviating from this diet, 75%/25% can be fatal to the Sugar Glider. Avoid preservatives, artificial flavors, and artificial colors. The Sugar Glider's diet is very specialized and can be quite expensive to feed. Something to take into serious consideration before you decide to bring home a sugar glider.

Housing

It is not a good idea to let your little sugar gliders to be free in a house without strict supervision. They can be injured. The little darlings also like to chew things up like your drapes, furniture, and any other chewable stuff in your house.

Do not forget that the glider is nocturnal. Sugar Gliders cannot be outside in the direct sun. The sun will injure their eyes severely.

Cages need to be good sized. The sugar glider cage can be bought or homemade. Homemade cages are relatively easy to build. The cage should be welded wire because Sugar Gliders like to climb. The size of the mesh needs to be small. A cage should be no smaller than 24" inches in diameter and 38" tall for any more than 2 animals. Bigger is better.

Place live fruit trees branches in their cage, and replace them frequently. This is for two purposes. One of these reasons is for climbing. The other reason they need to chew to keep their teeth healthy. Do not use any branches that have been sprayed!

Provide a nesting box for them to sleep in the daytime, for their comfort and to keep them out of the daylight. Fleece makes a great pillow and blanket for the sugar glider. Never use tissue (like toilet paper), sugar gliders can ingest tissue. Ingested tissue can cause intestinal blockage.

Bedding is a bit tricky; from all the fruit, their little feet can be sticky. Corncob bedding works well. Cedar is harmful, as is pine.

Legality of Sugar Gliders in the USA

I say in the US because I do not know what agency to contact outside of the United States. To find out if it legal to own a sugar glider in the US, contact the US Dept of Agriculture (Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service). Inquire if you must have a license.

This is a general overview to give you information about the Sugar Glider. Before you decide to bring one into your home, please research them entirely and find a vet that is knowledgeable.

Sugar Gliders Adoption

Please consider looking into pet adoption before purchasing a sugar glider. There are many sugar glider rescues and sugar gliders looking for a home.

Spend lots of time with your Sugar glider, and they will love to be with you. They will literally crave your attention. As you have seen, they can be costly and are time intensive. Sugar Gliders are sweet animals and make wonderful pets for the right person. Above all else enjoy your sugar glider.

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Monday, October 22, 2012

Bird First Aid - Emergency

Always keep a carrier ready and large enough to contain and transport your bird. Put a towel on the bottom of the carrier to keep him calm. If he is ill or injured, he or she needs to be kept warm and calm.

Birds will hide their injuries or illnesses so that they do not appear weak to predators. When a bird is injured or ill it is not a good idea to use a carrier with a fitted perch. They may fall, or panic and flap their wings and become seriously injured.

Also, it is invaluable to have this carrier nearby in case of fire, earthquakes, tornados, floods and other disasters.

If a bird is attacked by a cat wash out the wound with hydrogen peroxide and then Betadine (most of these products are much cheaper in a farm store or feed store) immediately, and get the bird to a vet for antibiotic shots. When a cat scratches or bites a bird, it will pass on Pasteurella a bacterium. That scratch or bite will be fatal in 24 hours.

If your bird should start convulsing place the bird in his carrier, keep the pet bird warm, call your vet.

If your bird is burned rinse the burn immediately with cool water apply Neosporin Ointment. Treat for shock. If the bird is burned badly get him to a veterinarian immediately.

Wounds that bleed apply direct pressure until bleeding has stopped, clean with Betadine and apply Neosporin Ointment. If the wound is serious get to a vet. If the wound is a puncture wound take the bird to a vet; antibiotics may be administered. Use blood clotting agent Clotisol.

Broken blood feather use pliers to pull out flood feather that has been damaged. The broken blood feather will act as a suctioned straw and the bird will bleed out. Grip the feather firmly and pull the feather straight out. Clean with Betadine and use the blood clotting agent Clotisol If there is still bleeding, apply pressure, and get the bird to a vet. Birds don’t have a lot of blood, don’t waste time.

Their nimble tongue can get them into trouble. Their tongues have a lot of blood vessels hightail it to a vet; they will bleed out quickly.

Birds go into shock easily; keep the bird warm and calm.

Night terror – I have had quite a few calls about birds panicking at night. Birds do not see well in the dark. They start jumping around and flapping their wings. This can cause serious injury. If your bird should have night terrors keep a nightlight near the cage. Pull the cage cover up on one end near the night light. Talk to your bird calmly. I have seen this happen rarely with my own birds. Which leads me to believe that birds dream much as humans do? Dreaming is the way the brain processes information and puts it in the proper place for storage (much like defragging our computers.)

It sure wouldn’t hurt to consult an Avian Veterinarian and hopefully get to the root cause of the night terrors.

If you tape a bird with a Hook and Loop, Velcro tape, gauze tape or any tape make sure it is not too tight to prevent the bird from breathing. Bird’s breathe very differently than we do; the same thing with holding a bird – not too tight.

If you have an emergency with your bird use common sense. If he is bleeding profusely grab something (sheet, shirt, men’s tie- anything to control the bleeding FAST), get the bird, apply direct pressure, and then call the vet while holding the animal. Hopefully, someone is around to assist. With a bit of luck, your medical kit as described below is handy, so that you can grab a clean dishcloth.

You can cite any “expert” sometimes emergencies come down to simple common sense. If I told you to call a vet, then apply direct pressure would you do it? Or, would you apply direct pressure and then call the vet?

Emergency First Aid Supplies

If your bird has been injured or poisoned your veterinarian may recommend emergency first aid before you even transport to the clinic. Have these items on hand, so they are ready when he or she instructs an emergency procedure.

Veterinarians phone number

Night, holiday, or relief veterinarian phone number

Supplies

Gauze pads to apply direct pressure

Cotton swabs

Alcohol swabs

1" gauze tape

Hook And Loop or Velcro medical tape (or) Vet wrap

Penlight

Metal nail file

Tweezers or hemostats

Small scissors

Clean dish towels

1cc tuberculin syringes

Flexible tubing

12cc curved tip syringes

A net

Sterile saline solution

Hydrogen peroxide

Pedialyte – hydration and restoring electrolytes

Betadine – this is my personal favorite it is a broad-spectrum antiseptic. I buy it in farm supplies a gallon at a time we use it on our pets, wildlife rescues and ourselves.

Clotisol - blood clotting agent

Neosporin Ointment

Pepto-Bismol – to treat vomiting 2 drops by dropper

Benadryl*** (pink kapseals)

Pliers

Magnifying glass

Good bottle of wine - calming effect on YOU after emergency.

How to Avoid Emergencies

Toxic Houseplants

Poisons

Ceiling Fans

Unsuitable toys with small chain links, metal clips, lead weights, balsa wood, plastic, and small bells.

Sandpaper-covered perches

Toxic fumes from non-stick-coated cookware, insecticides, and air pollutants.

Open doors that lead outside or can be slammed on a bird

Sudden changes in temperatures

Toys or items with lead paint – we will see this more often with so much stuff made in China

Boiling pots of food or water on the stove

Open toilets

Glasses of water

Toys or other things that can cause strangulation

Air freshener

*** Benadryl - If you look in Walmart in the sleep aid department you will find a generic sleep aid - read the back of the bottle/box it will say the only ingredient is Benadryl. These are far cheaper than buying Benadryl.

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Tuesday, October 2, 2012

Budgie & Parakeet Guide

Health

Birds have a tendency to mask illnesses. To ensure your bird’s good health provide plenty of good nutrition. Keep his cage and accessories clean and sanitized. Keep the budgie bird out of drafts and sudden temperature changes.

Clean the cages daily sanitize the cage weekly. Food and water dishes should be sanitized daily. Most harsh disinfectants are dangerous to birds. Never use piney oily smelling stuff like Pinsol. The safest disinfectant is Chlorhexidine.

If you observe your bird displaying symptoms such as hunched over, droopy, wet droppings, or uninterested in his environment he is sick. Take your bird to an avian veterinarian.

Your house has many dangers to the bird. He may get hurt on a ceiling fan. He may drop into a pot of boiling water or an open toilet. He could ingest poisonous plants. The fumes from overheated non-stick cookware are poisonous to your birds. Aerosol can be harmful; an example air freshener. Use extreme caution when letting your bird fly in your home.

With proper care and safety measures the parakeet lifespan - lifespan (people spell it both ways) should be up to fifteen years.

Parakeets need 10-12 hours of sleep a day. He should have darkness and quiet. Cover his cage.

Birds can suffer from Coccidiosis. The symptoms of Coccidiosis are blood in the droppings, a soiled vent and the bird will look huddled up. This must be diagnosed with the use of a microscope. Take the bird to a veterinarian for diagnoses and treatment.

Parakeets should be kept in temperatures of no lower than 68-70F to no higher than 90F. During the day if they can’t get some direct sunlight (make sure part of the cage is shaded and watch that the bird doesn’t overheat) it wouldn’t hurt to expose the bird to a full spectrum light for a part of the day. Any animal with a skeleton structure needs vitamin D3.

Ornithosis: Psittacosis is a disease in birds that can be passed on to humans. The symptoms are runny eyes and blinking. Take the bird to a veterinarian for diagnoses and treatment.

Birds can suffer from mites and lice. Birds will act lethargic and become anemic.

Play and Training

The first thing you should train your parakeet is how to perch on a finger. Remain calm and speak in a calming voice. Gently press your finger into his chest until he learns to step up on your finger. Offer him praise and a treat. Parakeets can learn to mimic words. Repeat the word or phrase repeatedly. Male birds are much easier to train than female birds.

Birds enjoy sounds and music in the background. Keep the volume low. Birds suffer from boredom too! They love for you to talk to them. Even while doing your daily chores the budgies will enjoy the interaction. Parakeet or budgerigars can learn to talk.

Provide your pet with toys and treats. Pet stores have a great variety of toys available for parakeets. Put some of the toys away for a couple weeks and bring out new ones. Rotating his toys will provide him with new mental stimulation.

There are much healthy fun treats available for the parakeet. They will enjoy millet sprays, egg biscuits, seed sticks, fruit sticks, and seed bells.

You might consider purchasing a bird playpen. The playpen has perches, swings, and ladders. Your parakeet will have a great deal of fun with a bird playpen.

Parakeet actions can be a bit strange to a first-time parakeet owner. The ultimate of a show of affection toward you would be for the parakeet to regurgitate, and if you’re not quick you will end up with a mouth full of goo. Don’t pull back in revulsion while your bird is showing love you would be turning down that love. Just do your best to keep your mouth closed, and then shower your baby with affection. This goo is what the mother parakeet feeds their young. It is only partially digested food.

Parakeets make a noise when content much like a cat purrs. It is a cute noise like a warble. Parakeets are not loud like many parrots and you can easily keep them in an apartment or mobile home park.

Summary

The parakeet is a brilliantly colored small parrot that makes a delightful companion pet. Their antics are fun to watch. They can be trained to talk and mimic your words. Keep his cage and accessories clean and disinfected. Spend time playing and talking with your bird. Provide him with plenty of mental stimulation with toys. You will have a good friend for many years to come. Above all else enjoy your pet budgie.

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Monday, October 1, 2012

How to make Halloween Costumes for Pets

Making costumes for your pets can be simple, and inexpensive, if not free. Everyone has old clothing or clothing we don’t wear or need, taking up space, that could be used for other things. That size six wardrobe put away 15-years ago in all likelihood will never see the light of day again. We also have a whole lot of stuff in our junk drawers that could easily be used to decorate costumes. With a little imagination and improvising skills, this could result in some mighty cute costumes.

Homemade Halloween Costumes for Pets

First, no matter how cute your pet is dressed for Halloween, safety comes first. Many dangers, even hidden dangers, come along with the territory of Halloween and Halloween costumes. Strings that strangulate or materials that are flammable, poisonous substances, cool glittery things that could cause an animal to choke or a material that could be toxic. Noises that could scare your pet into a flight, and I do mean both definitions of the word flight. Children and adults, people that your pets would normally recognize will look and possibly smell entirely different.

How to make easy Halloween Costumes for Pets Homemade Halloween costumes do not have to be complex. Use construction paper or old material just use your imagination and be creative! It is more fun if you make it easy and simple.

Think about what type of costume you want for your exotic pet. Do you have a theme in mind? Second look at your pet’s proportions. Measure the neck, space between legs both from side to side and back to front. That is if the animal has four legs. Also measure the circumference of the legs, so on and so forth. Usually simply eye-balling the measurements will do the trick. Some pets just won’t hold still long enough to use a tape measure.

Now think about what you have on hand. You may have to purchase a couple of things but improvise using what you already have is a lot of fun. After all, a simple hat made from construction paper is cute in itself.

Perhaps you’re not so crafty, or just don’t enjoy or have time for homemade pet costumes. There is a bunch of costumes for your pet to look like an exotic pet, your exotic pet to look like a pet, a pet that looks like a child or a child that looks like an exotic pet. Sounds fun, doesn’t it!

If a child can be a lamb why can’t a ferret become a bumble bee for Halloween! The new rage, Halloween costumes for our pets from Halloween costumes for dogs, Halloween costumes for cats, and Halloween costumes for exotic pets.

I have found that many Halloween costumes for dogs and Halloween costumes for cats will work, (most are available in small, medium, and large) for many exotic pets including the skunk, raccoon, coatimundi, iguana, and many other animals. See there really are Halloween costumes for exotic pets!

I have found that many costumes designed for small dogs or cats will work on the skunk, raccoon, coatimundi, iguana, and many other animals. Ferret costumes work great with smaller exotic pets. I have even rigged a costume or two for iguanas. Use your imagination; think about your pet, how the pet is shaped, where the leg positions are, the sky is the limit with converting costumes meant for children and pets to fit other animals. I have seen some pretty cool snake costumes as well. There are literally thousands of costumes for animals at Amazon!

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Thursday, September 27, 2012

Madagascar Hissing Cockroach

Madagascar Hissing Cockroach - Pet

Insect exotic pets such as the pet Madagascar Hissing Cockroach are particularly popular. They are fascinating animals. A lot of people enjoy these amazing creatures as pets. They are not like the more common cockroaches found in dwellings, they spend their time naturally on the forest floors, not in homes! Unless of course, a person should decide to have an hisser as a pet but keep in mind they are excellent climbers, however, do not fly.

Hissers do make good beginner insects because of their durable outer shell; they are hardy insects. They are also quite docile, don't move very fast, and are easy to handle. If you want to start a responsible child out with an insect pet, this would be a good starting point. Making sure you supervise because all critters deserve the best of care. Hissers would rather hide when frightened, they do not bite.

Gently pick them up. They will be holding on to whatever they are sitting on. Scoop them up from underneath making sure their claws are unattached from whatever they are standing on so that you don't hurt their little legs!

Madagascar Hissing Cockroach (Gromphadorhina portentosa), just one of the many species of an unusual life, found only on the island of Madagascar, which is a country off the coast of Africa. They reach an impressive size of 2-3 inches; about one inch wide at full growth. The male is more portentous with their horns (pronotum). They are a wingless roach. Bearing live young after the young hatch from an egg sac inside of the mother, meaning they give birth to live young (more accurately living young) after the eggs hatch.

Madagascar hissing cockroaches bugs gromphadorhina portentosa by Walton LaVonda, U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service

They get their name from the grand hissing noise they make. This hissing noise is mostly made during mating rituals and fights between male hissers the victorious often making the most hissing noises making a person wonder if it isn't the noise of the conqueror after many display hisses during the fight. Males are territorial. They may also hiss when they are startled. It is not unheard of to hear many members of a colony of hissers making this hissing noise at the same time. So perhaps, this is one of the many mysteries humans just don't entirely understand.

They make the hissing sound when they squeeze air through the body part spiracles (breathing tubes) found in front of the abdomen. The hissing noise can be quite loud; audible up to 12 feet away.

The hissing cockroach is found primarily in the rich vegetation of forest living between rotting logs and other debris eating rotting fruits, vegetation, rotting animals and insects. They are said to be a herbivore but this isn't true they are nature's perfect composters.

Hissing cockroaches are an invertebrate and go through growth cycles counted through each molting of their exoskeleton. They usually are capable of hissing when they reach maturity after their fourth molt.

They should have a large tank of at least 15 gallons (this will support a small colony) with a very secure (remember they climb) mesh top. Provide a much larger tank if you have more than a small colony. They should be kept at temperatures of 75-90 degrees F. Keep them warmer than 68 degrees F. Remember if you want an exotic pet you must keep them safe, happy, and secure keeping them as close to their natural environment. They live in warm tropical and must be kept warm.

I am going to presume they are a social critter since they live in colonies. I would expect it would be unhealthy to have just one hissing cockroach.

Provide a substrate making sure to stay away from the pine and cedar which will kill insects and small mammals, they have a toxic oily substance that is quite poisonous to critters. The best substrates or beddings are aspen. Supply plenty of safe hiding places to make them feel secure as they would on the forest floor. You can use cut up cardboard (without ink or paint) empty toilet paper rolls, or anything else along that line. Small pieces of wood (not treated). If you get wood near the bank of a lake make sure it isn't contaminated with chemicals from farm run-off.

Feed your hissers leafy veggies (not iceberg because it is as close to a non-nutrient food as you can get., other fruits and vegetables, dry dog foods. Remove fresh fruits and veggies quite often so that they do not spoil. Spoiling in a tank and natural forest floor rotting are quite different. Besides the Madagascar Hissing Cockroach naturally knows when forest floor vegetation is safe.

Change the food daily and clean the cage at least once a month. Remove the cockroaches and cage accessories and toss everything else. Sanitize the cage making sure it is well rinsed and dried. Make sure there are no odors from whatever sanitizer you used such as bleach.

Provide a shallow water dish very shallow to keep the hisser from drowning. Make sure they can safely get in and out. Put some safe material in the dish to help the hisser get in and out without drowning. If you use cotton, freshen it up frequently. Change the water frequently. Don't forget to use filtered water; filter the water for impurities and chlorine.

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Thursday, September 20, 2012

Capybara Guide

A Capybara is very much like a guinea pig but only around 100 (45 kilograms) or so pounds heavier and substantially bigger. They are approximately four feet (1.2 meters) long. That is one big rodent! The size of a pet may matter if you are considering an in-house pet. They are very social animals as are guinea pigs. Do they make good exotic pets? Many of the people that have the capybara as a pet seem to think so. However, with all exotic pets, the individual species must be right for the right person. Let's examine the pet capybara.

Many people have guinea pigs. It is sad because the majority of them are not well taken care of; often considered a throwaway pet. Or kids tire of them and the guinea pig will sit in a dirty cage until they die. Maybe worst, they are a social animal, and they will die of loneliness. Or, because they're rodents their teeth continually grow. Without proper care, providing adequate objects to chew on, the teeth will overgrow, and the guinea pig will starve to death.

I am off my soapbox for now. If you want a pet capybara to make sure you know everything there is about them, their care, their social needs, and their dispositions/personalities.

Some people find the word rodent repulsive. I find rodents lovely pets some of the sweetest and friendliest animals I have had the privilege of having in my family.

To bond with your capybara make sure you acquire/purchase him or her young. Or, perhaps someone has raised a capybara and could no longer keep them. Try locating a rescue or small animal rescue and adopt an already human bonded capybara.

It may be difficult to obtain licensing for the pet capybara check federal, state and local laws. Be sure to learn all you can about proper legal requirements. Don't forget to check local requirements as well.

Find an exotic pet veterinarian that is familiar with these beautiful animals.

The Capybara is a semi-aquatic animal, and you need to provide a pool. It would be cruel to not provide for such an important and basic need. Keep it clean! If you cage a capybara they must have a minimum of 100 square feet for a single animal, double that for each additional animal.

Capybaras can be raised in a home. In fact, since it is hard for the young capybara to maintain body temperature, a safe heated area will be necessary.

They are a herbivore (both land and water plants) with some seriously strange habits. They chew a cud much like a cow, will regurgitate it and eat it again. Also, they will eat their own feces. Trying to get protein and other nutrients from a plant are no easy matter, so the process is repeated with eating the cud and feces. The bacterial gut flora in the feces helps with obtaining the nutrients they need from plant matter.

They can be leash trained, trained to potty in a certain area but you should use cat litter because of the fact they may eat their own feces.

Learn all you can about the pet capybara before acquiring your new pet. Perhaps volunteer and gain some experience with capybaras and other exotic animals before considering the purchase.

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Wednesday, September 5, 2012

Herp Owners - Exotic Pets - Take a Stand!

Just in the United States, this figure does not include the rest of the world; 1.6 billion dollars is spent on exotic pets each year. I did not mistype that, that was a billion plus a whole lot more. One huge representation of the exotic pet industry is lizards, snakes, amphibians, frogs, and turtles. I don't spend a great deal of time discussing this very important part of the exotic pet industry because BellaOnline should have a reptile and amphibian editor. I am both the exotic pets editor and bird editor and I know how many thousands of people that come to me each month for advice. We need someone that cares enough for these beautiful creatures to do for reptiles and amphibians that I do for exotic pets and birds. Help educate and inform the public. Especially, before someone decides to acquire an animal they know little about. Read of the rest of the article Herp Owners - Exotic Pets - Take a Stand!My Ferret Book Guides and Exotic Pet Books Guides

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Tuesday, September 4, 2012

Guide to Cockatiels

Cockatiel Care

The endearing little cockatiel, the little heckler, which can tug at each and every one of your heartstrings! Once the cockatiel bird learns to wolf whistle, you will hear it all day.

A serious concern I have of cockatiel owners is if a cockatiel is capable of living for 30 years, why is the average lifespan of this companion pet so short? It seems like we all need to learn a great deal about nutrition and safety issues when it comes to the cockatiel. Breeders, as well as pet owners, need to become far more responsible in the care management of the cockatiel.

The coloration of wild cockatiels is the normal gray. There are many color mutations bred into the cockatiel, to name a few, Lutino, Fallow, Whiteface, Pastelface, Cinnamon, Pearl, Pied, Olive, and Silver.

Your New Cockatiel

If you are purchasing your first bird, have the equipment ready first. Make sure you have located an avian veterinarian before making a purchase. If you already own a bird, make sure you quarantine the new arrival for at least 8 weeks before you introduce the new bird to the existing birds. Birds have a strong tendency to hide illness since it makes them appear weak in the wild. Have your vet that deals with avian health look your pet over before introducing him to the other birds.

Find and locate several sources of cockatiel breeders. Check them all out. Make sure you are purchasing from healthy stock.

Look over your selection carefully as well as the surrounding birds. Are they chipper and responsive? Do they have bright clear eyes? Look at the vent area, is it clean? Are they all fluffed up and unhealthy looking? Look at the droppings at the bottom of the cage; do the feces look normal?

When you get your bird to its new house put it in the new cage and let it alone just softly speak and coo to the cockatiel, it will adjust to you and your voice helping the taming process. Use a calm voice. If you run out of things to say, you can always read stories or poetry to the cockatiel! Do not try to handle it for the first few days. Limit the initial play periods to 15 minutes with long intervals of rest in-between play periods. Obtain a book on taming and training. You will need to finger tame it and teach it the up command. Cockatiels are not great talkers but can learn a few words and phrases. Some cockatiels are better talkers than other cockatiels.

The pet cockatiel will live an average of 11-18 years with many cockatiels living to their 20's and 30'. Why the big difference for cockatiel age? How they are raised, genetics plays a small part, diet, and safety. Many cockatiels die from accidents that could have been avoided. The dangers we didn't see!

Cockatiel Food - Cockatiel Requirements

Cockatiel Housing: Cockatiel Cages and Cockatiel Accessories

The cage wires should be a thick wire and run horizontally. Cockatiels enjoy climbing up their cage. The wire should be spaced from 5/8th to 3/4 inch. Any bigger poses a safety risk. Their little heads can get stuck. Make sure the color coating is non-toxic.

The cockatiel will enjoy a playpen on top of its cage or a separate playpen.

Make sure the cage is not in a drafty area. Cockatiels need light but do not put the cage in direct sunlight, if no light is available from natural sunlight, supply a full-spectrum artificial light. They do need 12 hours of darkness so that their internal clock isn’t confused. They will stress, get sick, and possibly die. The cockatiel is in an area with the rest of the family, however, use a cage cover at night. (Cockatiels have a very advanced social structure and should be among their human family in the room they frequent the most.)

Make sure the cage is in a well-ventilated area. Fumes are especially hazardous to all birds. Teflon coated pans emit a deadly vapor when the pan gets too hot. Since it is not possible to know precisely where the overheating point is. I never have, nor would I ever use Teflon coated pans around my parrots. Many products are Teflon coated including, some varieties of heat lamps. Don't use sprays such as air fresheners or other contaminants in the air the bird can getting into their lungs. This includes scented candles.

There should be perches with varying diameters. The different sizes offered are beneficial to the health of the cockatiels feet. Natural tree branches work very well too. Be careful not to use any trees or plants that are toxic or poisonous. Branches that make safe perches are apple, ash, almond, apricot, peach, maple, and elm. If you live in a colder area as I do you may want to consider a Thermo Perch, at least for small birds.

Avian water bottles are significant in that the bird’s excrement does not contaminate the water. Make sure the bird has learned to use the bottle before removing the water dish. He or she will also need food dishes. One dish is for seed and one for fresh foods. Be sure to remove the fresh food after a short period so that the food doesn’t spoil. Keep the cage cleaned. It must be cleaned every day. The cage should be disinfected regularly (weekly). Make sure the cage it is dried and aired out before returning the bird to the cage. A drop through wire cage is the best. Make sure the food and water are changed daily (filtered water).

Dietary Requirements

Cockatiels need calcium. Provide the cockatiel with a cuttlefish bone (cuttlebone). At one time it was thought that just seed was good enough for birds. This is not true at all. Protein is important. Provide a good avian vitamin/mineral supplement. Please remember to follow the instructions. More is not better.

Some pet manufacturers have formulated well-balanced pellets. Many manufacturers have begun offering fortified seed mixes that include the other foods that they need. Dried fruits, vegetables, vitamins, and concentrated food supplements. You should supplement other foods for nutrition and variety after all the same old diet every day is boring for birds too. Supplement healthy people’s food. Serve your birds bean mixes and ready-made bird bread. A good diet helps the bird resist infection and they are stronger and healthier.

Health Management

You must take care of a bird’s wings and feet. Keep the toenails cut. If you cut too close use Clotisol - blood clotting agent.

Cockatiels are very strong flyers. You should trim their wings. Even trimming their wings only slows them down. When clipping the wings be careful to watch for new growth or blood feathers. If you do cut one, the remaining part of the feather will act as a straw and siphon blood. This can cause them to bleed to death. Grab a pair of pliers and pull the entire feather out quickly. If you are unconformable, clipping wings for the first time have your avian vet do so, showing you how to do the clipping. If you do decide against clipping wings make sure you cockatiel is in a safe location. Somewhere where he can't get outside, fly into a boiling pan of water, get a hold of a poisonous plant, get mutilated by a ceiling fan, and dozens of other possible dangers, the worst being, the ones we haven't thought of!

Birds will hide their illness. Birds that are ill in the wild become easy prey to predators. It is difficult without watching your bird very carefully, every day for any signs that something could be wrong.

Safety issues are a great concern for your pet. There are many hazards in your home you might not recognize as a hazard. Watch your pet's access to ceiling fans, hot boiling water, or oil on the stove, toxic houseplants, chocolate, and cedar. I have just mentioned a short sampling of the dangers in a common house.

Summary

Cockatiels are wonderful, entertaining, delightful animals. They are a wonderful choice for most families. People that do not have a great deal of space, a bird could be a perfect pet. Please research before purchasing. After all, we want these little birds to survive as much of the thirty years that they are capable of living. Learn all you can about the cockatiel before you venture into this friendship. Above all else enjoy your pet cockatiel.

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Wednesday, August 29, 2012

Fainting Goats

The television show MythBusters, from the Discovery Channel, were evidently skeptical that fainting goats were in fact real. Yes, the Tennessee Fainting Goats did prove to be real. Fainting goats aren't just from Tennessee. They are a smaller breed of goat that many people have as exotic pets or raise to harvest cashmere hair or raise as dairy or meat goats.

Believe me, plenty of people adore fainting goats or plain old run of the mill goats as exotic pets. I know that I have enjoyed goats as pets for many years. They are fun and have a delightful personality. I have found goats to be intelligent and friendly. Though, you can find a male or buck to be rather smelly and maybe not so friendly.

MythBusters took on to prove or disprove the myth when YouTube videos of the goat's fainting went viral. Just why are people so fascinated when goat legs (leg muscles) goes stiff, and the poor thing falls over? They don't, in fact, faint but they do have a disease called myotonia congenita. This disease affects the muscles. Myotonia congenita is a disease that can be passed down to other generations, or an inherited disease. If Myth Busters proved it to be true, it's got to be true! Truly, the condition has been studied a great deal, it is real, but there is much to be learned. Humans and many other animals can get myotonia congenita.

The goat can become startled, the muscle stiffens, and the goat falls over on its side. The effects are short-lived, and the little guy is up and moving around again. You'll get the general idea by watching this short YouTube video by National Geographic Fainting Goats Fainting Goat

Fainting Goat Video

Tennessee Fainting Goats are also known as Stiff-leg Goats, Myotonic Goats, Wooden-leg Goats, faint goats, or Nervous Goats. I am sure these critters have known a few other names.

I know for a fact, if you have enough space, knowledge, (money) goats can make great pets for the right people. Goats need to be protected from predators, fainting goats even more so. If you have a comment, I would love to hear from you.

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