Bird First Aid - Emergency

Always keep a carrier ready and large enough to contain and transport your bird. Put a towel on the bottom of the carrier to keep him calm. If he is ill or injured, he or she needs to be kept warm and calm.

Birds will hide their injuries or illnesses so that they do not appear weak to predators. When a bird is injured or ill it is not a good idea to use a carrier with a fitted perch. They may fall, or panic and flap their wings and become seriously injured.

Also, it is invaluable to have this carrier nearby in case of fire, earthquakes, tornados, floods and other disasters.

If a bird is attacked by a cat wash out the wound with hydrogen peroxide and then Betadine (most of these products are much cheaper in a farm store or feed store) immediately, and get the bird to a vet for antibiotic shots. When a cat scratches or bites a bird, it will pass on Pasteurella a bacterium. That scratch or bite will be fatal in 24 hours.

If your bird should start convulsing place the bird in his carrier, keep the pet bird warm, call your vet.

If your bird is burned rinse the burn immediately with cool water apply Neosporin Ointment. Treat for shock. If the bird is burned badly get him to a veterinarian immediately.

Wounds that bleed apply direct pressure until bleeding has stopped, clean with Betadine and apply Neosporin Ointment. If the wound is serious get to a vet. If the wound is a puncture wound take the bird to a vet; antibiotics may be administered. Use blood clotting agent Clotisol.

Broken blood feather use pliers to pull out flood feather that has been damaged. The broken blood feather will act as a suctioned straw and the bird will bleed out. Grip the feather firmly and pull the feather straight out. Clean with Betadine and use the blood clotting agent Clotisol If there is still bleeding, apply pressure, and get the bird to a vet. Birds don’t have a lot of blood, don’t waste time.

Their nimble tongue can get them into trouble. Their tongues have a lot of blood vessels hightail it to a vet; they will bleed out quickly.

Birds go into shock easily; keep the bird warm and calm.

Night terror – I have had quite a few calls about birds panicking at night. Birds do not see well in the dark. They start jumping around and flapping their wings. This can cause serious injury. If your bird should have night terrors keep a nightlight near the cage. Pull the cage cover up on one end near the night light. Talk to your bird calmly. I have seen this happen rarely with my own birds. Which leads me to believe that birds dream much as humans do? Dreaming is the way the brain processes information and puts it in the proper place for storage (much like defragging our computers.)

It sure wouldn’t hurt to consult an Avian Veterinarian and hopefully get to the root cause of the night terrors.

If you tape a bird with a Hook and Loop, Velcro tape, gauze tape or any tape make sure it is not too tight to prevent the bird from breathing. Bird’s breathe very differently than we do; the same thing with holding a bird – not too tight.

If you have an emergency with your bird use common sense. If he is bleeding profusely grab something (sheet, shirt, men’s tie- anything to control the bleeding FAST), get the bird, apply direct pressure, and then call the vet while holding the animal. Hopefully, someone is around to assist. With a bit of luck, your medical kit as described below is handy, so that you can grab a clean dishcloth.

You can cite any “expert” sometimes emergencies come down to simple common sense. If I told you to call a vet, then apply direct pressure would you do it? Or, would you apply direct pressure and then call the vet?

Emergency First Aid Supplies

If your bird has been injured or poisoned your veterinarian may recommend emergency first aid before you even transport to the clinic. Have these items on hand, so they are ready when he or she instructs an emergency procedure.

Veterinarians phone number

Night, holiday, or relief veterinarian phone number

Supplies

Gauze pads to apply direct pressure

Cotton swabs

Alcohol swabs

1" gauze tape

Hook And Loop or Velcro medical tape (or) Vet wrap

Penlight

Metal nail file

Tweezers or hemostats

Small scissors

Clean dish towels

1cc tuberculin syringes

Flexible tubing

12cc curved tip syringes

A net

Sterile saline solution

Hydrogen peroxide

Pedialyte – hydration and restoring electrolytes

Betadine – this is my personal favorite it is a broad-spectrum antiseptic. I buy it in farm supplies a gallon at a time we use it on our pets, wildlife rescues and ourselves.

Clotisol - blood clotting agent

Neosporin Ointment

Pepto-Bismol – to treat vomiting 2 drops by dropper

Benadryl*** (pink kapseals)

Pliers

Magnifying glass

Good bottle of wine - calming effect on YOU after emergency.

How to Avoid Emergencies

Toxic Houseplants

Poisons

Ceiling Fans

Unsuitable toys with small chain links, metal clips, lead weights, balsa wood, plastic, and small bells.

Sandpaper-covered perches

Toxic fumes from non-stick-coated cookware, insecticides, and air pollutants.

Open doors that lead outside or can be slammed on a bird

Sudden changes in temperatures

Toys or items with lead paint – we will see this more often with so much stuff made in China

Boiling pots of food or water on the stove

Open toilets

Glasses of water

Toys or other things that can cause strangulation

Air freshener

*** Benadryl - If you look in Walmart in the sleep aid department you will find a generic sleep aid - read the back of the bottle/box it will say the only ingredient is Benadryl. These are far cheaper than buying Benadryl.

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Budgie & Parakeet Guide

Health

Birds have a tendency to mask illnesses. To ensure your bird’s good health provide plenty of good nutrition. Keep his cage and accessories clean and sanitized. Keep the budgie bird out of drafts and sudden temperature changes.

Clean the cages daily sanitize the cage weekly. Food and water dishes should be sanitized daily. Most harsh disinfectants are dangerous to birds. Never use piney oily smelling stuff like Pinsol. The safest disinfectant is Chlorhexidine.

If you observe your bird displaying symptoms such as hunched over, droopy, wet droppings, or uninterested in his environment he is sick. Take your bird to an avian veterinarian.

Your house has many dangers to the bird. He may get hurt on a ceiling fan. He may drop into a pot of boiling water or an open toilet. He could ingest poisonous plants. The fumes from overheated non-stick cookware are poisonous to your birds. Aerosol can be harmful; an example air freshener. Use extreme caution when letting your bird fly in your home.

With proper care and safety measures the parakeet lifespan - lifespan (people spell it both ways) should be up to fifteen years.

Parakeets need 10-12 hours of sleep a day. He should have darkness and quiet. Cover his cage.

Birds can suffer from Coccidiosis. The symptoms of Coccidiosis are blood in the droppings, a soiled vent and the bird will look huddled up. This must be diagnosed with the use of a microscope. Take the bird to a veterinarian for diagnoses and treatment.

Parakeets should be kept in temperatures of no lower than 68-70F to no higher than 90F. During the day if they can’t get some direct sunlight (make sure part of the cage is shaded and watch that the bird doesn’t overheat) it wouldn’t hurt to expose the bird to a full spectrum light for a part of the day. Any animal with a skeleton structure needs vitamin D3.

Ornithosis: Psittacosis is a disease in birds that can be passed on to humans. The symptoms are runny eyes and blinking. Take the bird to a veterinarian for diagnoses and treatment.

Birds can suffer from mites and lice. Birds will act lethargic and become anemic.

Play and Training

The first thing you should train your parakeet is how to perch on a finger. Remain calm and speak in a calming voice. Gently press your finger into his chest until he learns to step up on your finger. Offer him praise and a treat. Parakeets can learn to mimic words. Repeat the word or phrase repeatedly. Male birds are much easier to train than female birds.

Birds enjoy sounds and music in the background. Keep the volume low. Birds suffer from boredom too! They love for you to talk to them. Even while doing your daily chores the budgies will enjoy the interaction. Parakeet or budgerigars can learn to talk.

Provide your pet with toys and treats. Pet stores have a great variety of toys available for parakeets. Put some of the toys away for a couple weeks and bring out new ones. Rotating his toys will provide him with new mental stimulation.

There are much healthy fun treats available for the parakeet. They will enjoy millet sprays, egg biscuits, seed sticks, fruit sticks, and seed bells.

You might consider purchasing a bird playpen. The playpen has perches, swings, and ladders. Your parakeet will have a great deal of fun with a bird playpen.

Parakeet actions can be a bit strange to a first-time parakeet owner. The ultimate of a show of affection toward you would be for the parakeet to regurgitate, and if you’re not quick you will end up with a mouth full of goo. Don’t pull back in revulsion while your bird is showing love you would be turning down that love. Just do your best to keep your mouth closed, and then shower your baby with affection. This goo is what the mother parakeet feeds their young. It is only partially digested food.

Parakeets make a noise when content much like a cat purrs. It is a cute noise like a warble. Parakeets are not loud like many parrots and you can easily keep them in an apartment or mobile home park.

Summary

The parakeet is a brilliantly colored small parrot that makes a delightful companion pet. Their antics are fun to watch. They can be trained to talk and mimic your words. Keep his cage and accessories clean and disinfected. Spend time playing and talking with your bird. Provide him with plenty of mental stimulation with toys. You will have a good friend for many years to come. Above all else enjoy your pet budgie.

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Guide to Cockatiels

Cockatiel Care

The endearing little cockatiel, the little heckler, which can tug at each and every one of your heartstrings! Once the cockatiel bird learns to wolf whistle, you will hear it all day.

A serious concern I have of cockatiel owners is if a cockatiel is capable of living for 30 years, why is the average lifespan of this companion pet so short? It seems like we all need to learn a great deal about nutrition and safety issues when it comes to the cockatiel. Breeders, as well as pet owners, need to become far more responsible in the care management of the cockatiel.

The coloration of wild cockatiels is the normal gray. There are many color mutations bred into the cockatiel, to name a few, Lutino, Fallow, Whiteface, Pastelface, Cinnamon, Pearl, Pied, Olive, and Silver.

Your New Cockatiel

If you are purchasing your first bird, have the equipment ready first. Make sure you have located an avian veterinarian before making a purchase. If you already own a bird, make sure you quarantine the new arrival for at least 8 weeks before you introduce the new bird to the existing birds. Birds have a strong tendency to hide illness since it makes them appear weak in the wild. Have your vet that deals with avian health look your pet over before introducing him to the other birds.

Find and locate several sources of cockatiel breeders. Check them all out. Make sure you are purchasing from healthy stock.

Look over your selection carefully as well as the surrounding birds. Are they chipper and responsive? Do they have bright clear eyes? Look at the vent area, is it clean? Are they all fluffed up and unhealthy looking? Look at the droppings at the bottom of the cage; do the feces look normal?

When you get your bird to its new house put it in the new cage and let it alone just softly speak and coo to the cockatiel, it will adjust to you and your voice helping the taming process. Use a calm voice. If you run out of things to say, you can always read stories or poetry to the cockatiel! Do not try to handle it for the first few days. Limit the initial play periods to 15 minutes with long intervals of rest in-between play periods. Obtain a book on taming and training. You will need to finger tame it and teach it the up command. Cockatiels are not great talkers but can learn a few words and phrases. Some cockatiels are better talkers than other cockatiels.

The pet cockatiel will live an average of 11-18 years with many cockatiels living to their 20's and 30'. Why the big difference for cockatiel age? How they are raised, genetics plays a small part, diet, and safety. Many cockatiels die from accidents that could have been avoided. The dangers we didn't see!

Cockatiel Food - Cockatiel Requirements

Cockatiel Housing: Cockatiel Cages and Cockatiel Accessories

The cage wires should be a thick wire and run horizontally. Cockatiels enjoy climbing up their cage. The wire should be spaced from 5/8th to 3/4 inch. Any bigger poses a safety risk. Their little heads can get stuck. Make sure the color coating is non-toxic.

The cockatiel will enjoy a playpen on top of its cage or a separate playpen.

Make sure the cage is not in a drafty area. Cockatiels need light but do not put the cage in direct sunlight, if no light is available from natural sunlight, supply a full-spectrum artificial light. They do need 12 hours of darkness so that their internal clock isn’t confused. They will stress, get sick, and possibly die. The cockatiel is in an area with the rest of the family, however, use a cage cover at night. (Cockatiels have a very advanced social structure and should be among their human family in the room they frequent the most.)

Make sure the cage is in a well-ventilated area. Fumes are especially hazardous to all birds. Teflon coated pans emit a deadly vapor when the pan gets too hot. Since it is not possible to know precisely where the overheating point is. I never have, nor would I ever use Teflon coated pans around my parrots. Many products are Teflon coated including, some varieties of heat lamps. Don't use sprays such as air fresheners or other contaminants in the air the bird can getting into their lungs. This includes scented candles.

There should be perches with varying diameters. The different sizes offered are beneficial to the health of the cockatiels feet. Natural tree branches work very well too. Be careful not to use any trees or plants that are toxic or poisonous. Branches that make safe perches are apple, ash, almond, apricot, peach, maple, and elm. If you live in a colder area as I do you may want to consider a Thermo Perch, at least for small birds.

Avian water bottles are significant in that the bird’s excrement does not contaminate the water. Make sure the bird has learned to use the bottle before removing the water dish. He or she will also need food dishes. One dish is for seed and one for fresh foods. Be sure to remove the fresh food after a short period so that the food doesn’t spoil. Keep the cage cleaned. It must be cleaned every day. The cage should be disinfected regularly (weekly). Make sure the cage it is dried and aired out before returning the bird to the cage. A drop through wire cage is the best. Make sure the food and water are changed daily (filtered water).

Dietary Requirements

Cockatiels need calcium. Provide the cockatiel with a cuttlefish bone (cuttlebone). At one time it was thought that just seed was good enough for birds. This is not true at all. Protein is important. Provide a good avian vitamin/mineral supplement. Please remember to follow the instructions. More is not better.

Some pet manufacturers have formulated well-balanced pellets. Many manufacturers have begun offering fortified seed mixes that include the other foods that they need. Dried fruits, vegetables, vitamins, and concentrated food supplements. You should supplement other foods for nutrition and variety after all the same old diet every day is boring for birds too. Supplement healthy people’s food. Serve your birds bean mixes and ready-made bird bread. A good diet helps the bird resist infection and they are stronger and healthier.

Health Management

You must take care of a bird’s wings and feet. Keep the toenails cut. If you cut too close use Clotisol - blood clotting agent.

Cockatiels are very strong flyers. You should trim their wings. Even trimming their wings only slows them down. When clipping the wings be careful to watch for new growth or blood feathers. If you do cut one, the remaining part of the feather will act as a straw and siphon blood. This can cause them to bleed to death. Grab a pair of pliers and pull the entire feather out quickly. If you are unconformable, clipping wings for the first time have your avian vet do so, showing you how to do the clipping. If you do decide against clipping wings make sure you cockatiel is in a safe location. Somewhere where he can't get outside, fly into a boiling pan of water, get a hold of a poisonous plant, get mutilated by a ceiling fan, and dozens of other possible dangers, the worst being, the ones we haven't thought of!

Birds will hide their illness. Birds that are ill in the wild become easy prey to predators. It is difficult without watching your bird very carefully, every day for any signs that something could be wrong.

Safety issues are a great concern for your pet. There are many hazards in your home you might not recognize as a hazard. Watch your pet's access to ceiling fans, hot boiling water, or oil on the stove, toxic houseplants, chocolate, and cedar. I have just mentioned a short sampling of the dangers in a common house.

Summary

Cockatiels are wonderful, entertaining, delightful animals. They are a wonderful choice for most families. People that do not have a great deal of space, a bird could be a perfect pet. Please research before purchasing. After all, we want these little birds to survive as much of the thirty years that they are capable of living. Learn all you can about the cockatiel before you venture into this friendship. Above all else enjoy your pet cockatiel.

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Chinchilla Guide

The exotic pet chinchilla is shy, intelligent, and they have a pleasant personality. Chinchillas have an average lifespan ten to fifteen years. It is indeed not unheard of for chinchillas to live as long as 20 years. Following the right chinchilla, care guide helps the chinchilla to achieve optimum longevity.

The chinchilla is excellent exotic pets. They do quite well if you understand their needs. Especially dietary needs; simple things like not understanding treats can kill them rapidly. Grooming is a whole new ballgame compared to other animals. The pet chinchilla is a remarkable pet, but it is up to you to learn as much as possible about this fantastic animal before taking on the responsibility of caring for one. Understand the remarkable world of the pet chinchilla!

Chinchillas are generally gray but can have many mutations of colors from white to black and many variations in between. The gray is the least expensive because there are more of them. The chinchilla originated in Chile, Bolivia, Peru, and Argentina and are of the Chinchillidae family. This family divided into three groups. The chinchilla belongs to the same group as porcupines and guinea pigs, the Hystricomorph family. The two chinchilla species is the short-tailed chinchilla brevicaudata and the long-tailed chinchilla bred for the pet industry of the species the chinchilla lanigera.

The chinchilla harvested for their exceptional fur, which almost leads to their extermination. Gradually chinchillas were bred domestically saving them from the brink of extinction. Short-tailed chinchillas have been on the Critically Endangered list for quite some time and are protected. Long-tailed Chinchilla as vulnerable Always purchase captive bred exotic (domestically produced) pets to preserve the remaining populations.

Chinchillas make a variety of sounds to communicate but are not anywhere near raucous or boisterous. On a care scale, they are reasonably easy to care for.

As with all rodents, the teeth grow continually, and they must have material to chew on to keep their teeth at a safe length. Look in the small animal department at your pet store.

Pet chinchillas enjoy jumping from perch to perch since they must have the means to keep their teeth ground down; it is nice to have the lava perches; a dual function.

They could also chew things they shouldn’t eat. They can’t be taught not to chew your belongings.

They are nocturnal meaning they are up in the evening and go to sleep in the daytime. You have to ask yourself if this is the pet for you. Pets require plenty of care; if you are nocturnal, it may be a match in heaven.

They enjoy toys, wheels, and chew blocks (safe) round nest balls they play with and rest in, cute as a dickens. There is a variety of wheels found in various pet stores and online stores. Which brings us to the subject of cuddling; they enjoy some cuddling, on their own terms but are very energetic and active. They must be able to exercise and run outside their cage for at least an hour a day. This must be supervised play for their own safety and for the safety of your belongings, outside plants and shrubs they will somewhat nimble their way around. Make sure there are no poisonous plants near the chinchilla.

Before buying your chinchilla make sure, you have everything ready before he or she arrives. Look for bright clear eyes, no signs of fur biting, not wet below the chin, and doesn’t feel skinny or sickly. Look for some of the droppings make sure they are dry and firm.

Approach taming the chinchilla slowly and gradually you must gain their trust, and you will. They will love being with you but on their terms. A chinchilla shouldn’t be forced to be a lap pet, it isn’t their nature. Though, when ready they will gladly climb on you.

It bothers me a great deal when I find someone who has written an article on exotic pets such as the chinchilla and states they are not necessarily social creatures. The herd social structure is fundamental, and the knowledge is crucial to prevent aggressive behavior or worst; injuries and death.

Female chinchillas can share the same cage; they are social and live in herds in the wild. Be very careful about introducing a new female to the cage as they have advanced social structures. They will display defensive behavior, as they will also defend their territory. When adding a new female put the new girl in a second cage near the primary cage. Do not put it within reaching a distance of the other cage. Give them plenty of time to grow adjusted to each other, smell, and sounds. She will eventually be accepted by the group.

Add a new hiding box it will not have the scent of any chinchilla; this will help with adding a new chinchilla.

Gradually introduce the new female to the group during out of the cage time; this is a good time for the dust bath. You must supervise this introduction at all times.

Two or more males may live together as long as there are no females nearby (in the same house, NO scent of females) to provoke aggressive behavior. Chinchillas’ are sweet; however, they can kill each other when stirred by female smell. Introduce a new male in the same way you introduce a new female to a female herd. Stick with females or males; not both.

The cage for the chinchilla should be large especially since they are very active animals. They love the large, tall, multi-level cages.

In the wild chinchillas take baths in the dust. They deplore water! In the wild, the chinchilla’s environment is volcanic. The only dust that should be used is dust bought commercially called chinchilla sand. This formula is naturally dust free, and a safe way to groom a chinchilla and they must have the tool to groom. It will remove moisture and fatty oils. This chinchilla sand is excellent for gerbils and hamsters as well. Do not use plain sand.

Dust bathtubs can be bought, or you can use any container that won’t be knocked over. The bowl should be large enough for the chinchilla to roll around in. The dust bath can be removed when the chinchilla is finished with his or her bath so that the dust does not become soiled. After removing the dust container, sift it to remove any impurities. Combing and brushing is an excellent way to bond with your pet. However, this should be done before the animal takes its dust bath. Change the sand after cleaning and sanitizing the container on a frequent basis. With proper precautions, chinchillas rarely get sick.

The chinchilla will need a hidey house within his or her cage. It doesn’t need to be big, just comfortable. Remember, they will chew. A great example, may not be too difficult to reproduce out of safe untreated wood you have at home. Chinchilla food, treats, and grooming, all essential subjects if you want a chinchilla. Learning about the dietary needs of pet chinchillas is essential. Don’t use pellets especially prepared for rabbits and other rodents. Use a specially prepared pellet for the formulated for the chinchilla's dietary needs. If you must change the chinchilla’s food, do so very gradually they have a sensitive tummy.

The chinchilla needs roughage and should have fresh hay daily. Do not place the hay on the floor; keep it in a hay hopper designed for caged animals like rabbits and chinchillas. I like the Super Pet Rabbit Rollin' the Hay Holder because it provides the necessary exercise that chinchillas need. This can be used stationary, hanging from the cage or as a ball. Look in local pet stores.

Timothy hay by far is the best hay for a chinchilla; it not only assists in digestion but also supports the never-ending rodent teeth problem. Remember wild chinchillas came from an environment which gave them plenty of opportunities to wear down their teeth. As responsible pet owners, we must provide the material necessary for their total health and comfort. Timothy hay alone will not be enough to keep their teeth worn down. They should have the lava chews combination perches to do a good job.

The chinchilla needs calcium one of the best forms is a cuttlefish bone used for birds. So many water supplies are contaminated or questionable; I suggest using bottled water or filtered water.

I use bottles not bowls for drinking water. Get the chew proof ones. Either way, the water should be fresh and always full. Frequently change the water and sanitize the bottle or bowl. Bowls should be changed several times throughout the day because of contamination. Bottles cleaned and changed daily. Food or droppings get in the water. Sanitize the bowl daily. Bottles sanitized every few days.

Treats should be very limited. Of course, it helps you bond with your pet, but again the chinchilla has a sensitive digestive system. One or two small treats a day. It can be one raisin, one small piece of apple or a sunflower seed. Give just ONE or two small treats.

Chinchilla can get sick, have colds, get fungus in his or her fur; it can starve to death if the teeth get too long. Since their digestive system can be inflamed very easily, they can get diarrhea leading to severe inflation of the intestine. Find a veterinarian that is very familiar with chinchillas before even purchasing your pet. If there is, a sign of distress take him or her to the veterinarian. It is your responsibility to watch for signs of illness. An animal cannot tell you when it is ill. Having any pet is expensive, and that is something that should be considered before buying a pet.

Do not place the cage in direct sunlight or drafts. Properly sanitize the cage and all equipment regularly. Proper sanitization will go a long way in keeping your pet or pets healthy.

These little fur balls make wonderful pets for the right people. Please pay attention to herd social structure, using the correct pellet for the chinchilla and not for other animals like the rabbit. They must have perches and lava chews. They must be able to groom.

Chinchillas need plenty of love, on their terms. Make sure you have time to spend quality time with your pet. Above all, enjoy your new pet!

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