Showing posts with label rodent. Show all posts
Showing posts with label rodent. Show all posts

Thursday, September 20, 2012

Capybara Guide

A Capybara is very much like a guinea pig but only around 100 (45 kilograms) or so pounds heavier and substantially bigger. They are approximately four feet (1.2 meters) long. That is one big rodent! The size of a pet may matter if you are considering an in-house pet. They are very social animals as are guinea pigs. Do they make good exotic pets? Many of the people that have the capybara as a pet seem to think so. However, with all exotic pets, the individual species must be right for the right person. Let's examine the pet capybara.

Many people have guinea pigs. It is sad because the majority of them are not well taken care of; often considered a throwaway pet. Or kids tire of them and the guinea pig will sit in a dirty cage until they die. Maybe worst, they are a social animal, and they will die of loneliness. Or, because they're rodents their teeth continually grow. Without proper care, providing adequate objects to chew on, the teeth will overgrow, and the guinea pig will starve to death.

I am off my soapbox for now. If you want a pet capybara to make sure you know everything there is about them, their care, their social needs, and their dispositions/personalities.

Some people find the word rodent repulsive. I find rodents lovely pets some of the sweetest and friendliest animals I have had the privilege of having in my family.

To bond with your capybara make sure you acquire/purchase him or her young. Or, perhaps someone has raised a capybara and could no longer keep them. Try locating a rescue or small animal rescue and adopt an already human bonded capybara.

It may be difficult to obtain licensing for the pet capybara check federal, state and local laws. Be sure to learn all you can about proper legal requirements. Don't forget to check local requirements as well.

Find an exotic pet veterinarian that is familiar with these beautiful animals.

The Capybara is a semi-aquatic animal, and you need to provide a pool. It would be cruel to not provide for such an important and basic need. Keep it clean! If you cage a capybara they must have a minimum of 100 square feet for a single animal, double that for each additional animal.

Capybaras can be raised in a home. In fact, since it is hard for the young capybara to maintain body temperature, a safe heated area will be necessary.

They are a herbivore (both land and water plants) with some seriously strange habits. They chew a cud much like a cow, will regurgitate it and eat it again. Also, they will eat their own feces. Trying to get protein and other nutrients from a plant are no easy matter, so the process is repeated with eating the cud and feces. The bacterial gut flora in the feces helps with obtaining the nutrients they need from plant matter.

They can be leash trained, trained to potty in a certain area but you should use cat litter because of the fact they may eat their own feces.

Learn all you can about the pet capybara before acquiring your new pet. Perhaps volunteer and gain some experience with capybaras and other exotic animals before considering the purchase.

Facebook Diana Geiger

My Ferret Book Guides and Exotic Pet Books Guides

Exotic Pets: Family Guide Paperback and Kindle. Available on Kindle Unlimited!

Ferrets: A Complete Guide is available in Kindle, paperback and Kindle Unlimited!

Wednesday, July 18, 2012

Chinchilla Guide

The exotic pet chinchilla is shy, intelligent, and they have a pleasant personality. Chinchillas have an average lifespan ten to fifteen years. It is indeed not unheard of for chinchillas to live as long as 20 years. Following the right chinchilla, care guide helps the chinchilla to achieve optimum longevity.

The chinchilla is excellent exotic pets. They do quite well if you understand their needs. Especially dietary needs; simple things like not understanding treats can kill them rapidly. Grooming is a whole new ballgame compared to other animals. The pet chinchilla is a remarkable pet, but it is up to you to learn as much as possible about this fantastic animal before taking on the responsibility of caring for one. Understand the remarkable world of the pet chinchilla!

Chinchillas are generally gray but can have many mutations of colors from white to black and many variations in between. The gray is the least expensive because there are more of them. The chinchilla originated in Chile, Bolivia, Peru, and Argentina and are of the Chinchillidae family. This family divided into three groups. The chinchilla belongs to the same group as porcupines and guinea pigs, the Hystricomorph family. The two chinchilla species is the short-tailed chinchilla brevicaudata and the long-tailed chinchilla bred for the pet industry of the species the chinchilla lanigera.

The chinchilla harvested for their exceptional fur, which almost leads to their extermination. Gradually chinchillas were bred domestically saving them from the brink of extinction. Short-tailed chinchillas have been on the Critically Endangered list for quite some time and are protected. Long-tailed Chinchilla as vulnerable Always purchase captive bred exotic (domestically produced) pets to preserve the remaining populations.

Chinchillas make a variety of sounds to communicate but are not anywhere near raucous or boisterous. On a care scale, they are reasonably easy to care for.

As with all rodents, the teeth grow continually, and they must have material to chew on to keep their teeth at a safe length. Look in the small animal department at your pet store.

Pet chinchillas enjoy jumping from perch to perch since they must have the means to keep their teeth ground down; it is nice to have the lava perches; a dual function.

They could also chew things they shouldn’t eat. They can’t be taught not to chew your belongings.

They are nocturnal meaning they are up in the evening and go to sleep in the daytime. You have to ask yourself if this is the pet for you. Pets require plenty of care; if you are nocturnal, it may be a match in heaven.

They enjoy toys, wheels, and chew blocks (safe) round nest balls they play with and rest in, cute as a dickens. There is a variety of wheels found in various pet stores and online stores. Which brings us to the subject of cuddling; they enjoy some cuddling, on their own terms but are very energetic and active. They must be able to exercise and run outside their cage for at least an hour a day. This must be supervised play for their own safety and for the safety of your belongings, outside plants and shrubs they will somewhat nimble their way around. Make sure there are no poisonous plants near the chinchilla.

Before buying your chinchilla make sure, you have everything ready before he or she arrives. Look for bright clear eyes, no signs of fur biting, not wet below the chin, and doesn’t feel skinny or sickly. Look for some of the droppings make sure they are dry and firm.

Approach taming the chinchilla slowly and gradually you must gain their trust, and you will. They will love being with you but on their terms. A chinchilla shouldn’t be forced to be a lap pet, it isn’t their nature. Though, when ready they will gladly climb on you.

It bothers me a great deal when I find someone who has written an article on exotic pets such as the chinchilla and states they are not necessarily social creatures. The herd social structure is fundamental, and the knowledge is crucial to prevent aggressive behavior or worst; injuries and death.

Female chinchillas can share the same cage; they are social and live in herds in the wild. Be very careful about introducing a new female to the cage as they have advanced social structures. They will display defensive behavior, as they will also defend their territory. When adding a new female put the new girl in a second cage near the primary cage. Do not put it within reaching a distance of the other cage. Give them plenty of time to grow adjusted to each other, smell, and sounds. She will eventually be accepted by the group.

Add a new hiding box it will not have the scent of any chinchilla; this will help with adding a new chinchilla.

Gradually introduce the new female to the group during out of the cage time; this is a good time for the dust bath. You must supervise this introduction at all times.

Two or more males may live together as long as there are no females nearby (in the same house, NO scent of females) to provoke aggressive behavior. Chinchillas’ are sweet; however, they can kill each other when stirred by female smell. Introduce a new male in the same way you introduce a new female to a female herd. Stick with females or males; not both.

The cage for the chinchilla should be large especially since they are very active animals. They love the large, tall, multi-level cages.

In the wild chinchillas take baths in the dust. They deplore water! In the wild, the chinchilla’s environment is volcanic. The only dust that should be used is dust bought commercially called chinchilla sand. This formula is naturally dust free, and a safe way to groom a chinchilla and they must have the tool to groom. It will remove moisture and fatty oils. This chinchilla sand is excellent for gerbils and hamsters as well. Do not use plain sand.

Dust bathtubs can be bought, or you can use any container that won’t be knocked over. The bowl should be large enough for the chinchilla to roll around in. The dust bath can be removed when the chinchilla is finished with his or her bath so that the dust does not become soiled. After removing the dust container, sift it to remove any impurities. Combing and brushing is an excellent way to bond with your pet. However, this should be done before the animal takes its dust bath. Change the sand after cleaning and sanitizing the container on a frequent basis. With proper precautions, chinchillas rarely get sick.

The chinchilla will need a hidey house within his or her cage. It doesn’t need to be big, just comfortable. Remember, they will chew. A great example, may not be too difficult to reproduce out of safe untreated wood you have at home. Chinchilla food, treats, and grooming, all essential subjects if you want a chinchilla. Learning about the dietary needs of pet chinchillas is essential. Don’t use pellets especially prepared for rabbits and other rodents. Use a specially prepared pellet for the formulated for the chinchilla's dietary needs. If you must change the chinchilla’s food, do so very gradually they have a sensitive tummy.

The chinchilla needs roughage and should have fresh hay daily. Do not place the hay on the floor; keep it in a hay hopper designed for caged animals like rabbits and chinchillas. I like the Super Pet Rabbit Rollin' the Hay Holder because it provides the necessary exercise that chinchillas need. This can be used stationary, hanging from the cage or as a ball. Look in local pet stores.

Timothy hay by far is the best hay for a chinchilla; it not only assists in digestion but also supports the never-ending rodent teeth problem. Remember wild chinchillas came from an environment which gave them plenty of opportunities to wear down their teeth. As responsible pet owners, we must provide the material necessary for their total health and comfort. Timothy hay alone will not be enough to keep their teeth worn down. They should have the lava chews combination perches to do a good job.

The chinchilla needs calcium one of the best forms is a cuttlefish bone used for birds. So many water supplies are contaminated or questionable; I suggest using bottled water or filtered water.

I use bottles not bowls for drinking water. Get the chew proof ones. Either way, the water should be fresh and always full. Frequently change the water and sanitize the bottle or bowl. Bowls should be changed several times throughout the day because of contamination. Bottles cleaned and changed daily. Food or droppings get in the water. Sanitize the bowl daily. Bottles sanitized every few days.

Treats should be very limited. Of course, it helps you bond with your pet, but again the chinchilla has a sensitive digestive system. One or two small treats a day. It can be one raisin, one small piece of apple or a sunflower seed. Give just ONE or two small treats.

Chinchilla can get sick, have colds, get fungus in his or her fur; it can starve to death if the teeth get too long. Since their digestive system can be inflamed very easily, they can get diarrhea leading to severe inflation of the intestine. Find a veterinarian that is very familiar with chinchillas before even purchasing your pet. If there is, a sign of distress take him or her to the veterinarian. It is your responsibility to watch for signs of illness. An animal cannot tell you when it is ill. Having any pet is expensive, and that is something that should be considered before buying a pet.

Do not place the cage in direct sunlight or drafts. Properly sanitize the cage and all equipment regularly. Proper sanitization will go a long way in keeping your pet or pets healthy.

These little fur balls make wonderful pets for the right people. Please pay attention to herd social structure, using the correct pellet for the chinchilla and not for other animals like the rabbit. They must have perches and lava chews. They must be able to groom.

Chinchillas need plenty of love, on their terms. Make sure you have time to spend quality time with your pet. Above all, enjoy your new pet!

Facebook Diana Geiger

My Ferret Book Guides and Exotic Pet Books Guides

Exotic Pets: Family Guide Paperback and Kindle. Available on Kindle Unlimited!

Ferrets: A Complete Guide is available in Kindle, paperback and Kindle Unlimited!

Wednesday, April 18, 2012

Guide to Patagonian Cavies

A Patagonian cavy is a gently natured rodent from South American from the family Cavidae. They are a relative of the guinea pig which is also a rodent from the Cavidae family.

Its appearance is very hare-like giving them another common name of Patagonian Hare. They are also called a Mara.

Patagonian cavies are active in the daytime (diurnal). Though they will feed and socialize in the evening/twilight hours. Especially in a captive group.

They are a very social animal something that should be given considerable thought before acquiring a Patagonian Cavy. In the wild, they live in small groups of 15 - 35 often forming a lifetime bond with a single mate (monogamous pairs).

It is imperative that you spend daily, quality time with your cavy. Cavies are very social, and they will not make the sweet and loving pet they are capable of if you do not spend a lot of time with them. They will rarely if ever bite, and I doubt if I have ever said this of any exotic pets.

They are considered the second largest to third largest rodent and weight between 15-30 pounds and reach 2 feet tall 2 1/2 if you include the tail. To me, they look much like the Jackrabbit I use to frequently see in the central valley of California. Though the Jackrabbit is much smaller. The cavy can jump quite high, run very fast, and burrow which makes housing the cavy interesting. The navigate on all fours during a hopping

As with many exotic pets, it is best to obtain Patagonian cavies while young and bottle feed making for a pet that is bonded to you. It makes it much easier to leash train and halter train, toilet train (the use of papers is usually recommended) and on to advanced training obeying some commands.

The tendency of voiding near their food makes for easy training. Put the cavies toilet area near their food dishes. Watch to see where they go concerning the food dishes and place the litter box where they have voided.

As with all animals never use cedar or pine as a litter box material or bedding material it is toxic. Use paper litter or just ripped up newspapers. You can use one of the dog potty mats with newspapers works exceptional well or a litter box that has had the sides removed.

They are a herbivore. The diet should include free range (available at all times) Timothy hay and high-quality food such as guinea pig pellets. Also, you can offer an alfalfa blend (alfalfa, clover, sweet oats). They will also require some fruits, and vegetables added to their diet. Do clean up fresh fruits and vegetables daily. You don't want your exotic pet to get ill from spoiled food. Always keep fresh, filtered water on hand.

As I mentioned housing, a Patagonian cavy is probably going to be the hardest thing to do. The cavy can run, jump, and burrow. You will need to supply warm, protected housing like a large insulated hard sided dog house inside a tall fenced parameter. They need a lot of space, it isn't healthy to keep them in a small confined space. They can also dig or burrow under the fenced so you will need to dig down a couple of feet and pour a cement foundation for the fence, or pour a cement slab, or use a heavy cage wire buried under the fenced area expanding to the outside of the perimeter.

Though the Patagonian in South America experience extreme temperatures be sure, you know that shade is provided at all times. If there are cold, sub-zero temperatures, make sure you are providing a safe heat source. Keep all cords and the heat source away from the cavy. They may chew the cord or get burned on the heater. Make sure the heat source is nowhere near the hay or other flammable objects.

Of course, they can be housed indoors with their human family. They love to be close to you. Except, while in the house they will have to be supervised or have an interior kennel. They chew, like all rodents they have ever-growing teeth and will gnaw on whatever there is to chomp on. Make sure you supply non-chemically treated, or non- toxic wooden objects for them to keep their teeth worn down.

If you want to take them out in public make sure you halter and leash train the cavy; they do startle easily. They are naturally a prey species of animal and are quite alert for predicators. You don't want to startle them and have it run in front of a car or become lost and afraid.

How long does a Patagonian cavy live? Their lifespan is longer in captivity than in the wild. With proper nutrition and veterinarian care 7-10 years with a few living beyond.

My Ferret Book Guides and Exotic Pet Books Guides

Exotic Pets: Family Guide Paperback and Kindle. Available on Kindle Unlimited!

Ferrets: A Complete Guide is available in Kindle, paperback and Kindle Unlimited!