Showing posts with label rabbit. Show all posts
Showing posts with label rabbit. Show all posts

Tuesday, January 1, 2019

Animal Stories - Free Range or Caged?

Perhaps a few pet stories will convince most of you that free-ranging exotic pets aren’t always such a good idea. I will tell the story of the rabbit in the dryer, raccoon that urinated on the surge protector, the ferrets that vanished, the rat on the roof, and the story skunks don’t climb.

I have received many questions, statements, and so forth about the topic of allowing exotic pets to have free run of the house. In my opinion, there are just too many dangers to allow many species of animals to have total run of the house. The use of common sense goes a long way.

Personally, I am in the middle. I allow my exotic pets plenty of exercise time and playtime outside of their cage or the area where I confine them. Some animals should never be caged. After a few potential mishaps and near disasters I just don’t allow them to run free without constant supervision.

"Honey, why is the rabbit in the dryer?" "What?" The rabbit is in the dryer. I had just taken out the clothes I wanted to hang up on hangers before I grabbed the last handful of clothes out of the dryer. I left the dryer door open. Evidently, the exotic pet rabbit thought that the cubby hole with warmth emanating from nice soft clothing looked intriguing. He climbed into the dryer, evidently to take a nap.

What if I had decided to turn the dryer back on to keep the rest of the clothes from wrinkling? There isn’t a lot that can be said about a fluffed rabbit. I also have heard of rabbits lured to fireplaces attracted by the heat and have gotten their fur scorched. After the dryer mishap, the rabbits were given one room to play in, and that one room was searched from top to bottom for any possible dangers. When they are out of their rabbit cages they are in their designated room and chaperoned.

One email I received was from a man that was concerned because his wife felt their rats should have total freedom of the house. It is near impossible to find all the dangers in the house when it comes to a rat. Here is what happened to us. We had the windows cracked open a bit in a second-floor bedroom. The windows had good screens. We went to check on our rat children and one was missing. There he was out on top of the second-floor roof wandering around. We are afraid to death of heights, we had to crawl out the window and retrieve the rat. Luckily he was the type to run toward us, and not run in the opposite direction. Rats just don’t fly well.

Even if an animal is in the same room with you, doesn’t mean he isn’t going to get into trouble. We had our office on one wall of the bedroom many years ago. We lived in Oklahoma in the country. I heard something outside and I looked out to see a sheriff’s car and then two sheriffs cautiously walking toward the house with their hands on their holsters. They looked very apprehensive. We both went outside to greet them, trying to look as friendly as possible. The two men were still uneasy until I asked what the problem was.

They explained a 911 call was made from our phone, but no one would speak to the dispatcher, and there was a strange noise on the line. In fact, they still had the connection and the bizarre noise was still coming over the line. I had one of those bingo moments. Our two baby raccoons had been playing on the bed behind our backs. The phone had also been on the bed. Somehow those two little rascals had taken the phone off the hook, managed to dial 911 and they were chuckling and chattering to the dispatcher. When I explained this to the two officers they looked incredibly relieved. I had to laugh when I heard them laughing quietly as they got back into their car. I was also glad I had my license to have the raccoons.

One of the same raccoons was playing under my desk one day. They were still very young and far from litter box trained. He urinated on my brand new APC battery backup surge protector. A loud zap and pop echoed through the room. Off went our computers. I looked under the desk and there was a very rattled, puffed up baby raccoon looking mighty scared. He ran to me and stayed in my arms for at least an hour. Thank goodness he hadn’t been electrocuted. But, I assure you he never peed on anything electrical again.

I don’t know how many times I have heard that skunks don’t climb. Bull roar, they climb. They may not be able to climb a tree like a raccoon but they can climb. We picked up two baby skunks up in Iowa; one skunk for a doctor that was a family friend, and also one for ourselves. Through previous experiences, I knew that baby gates didn’t work to contain a skunk. Nor, will I cage a skunk – ever. When they are tiny I use a baby's playpen. As they grow older I contain them to one safe room where we spend the most time. We had a piece of acrylic against the doorway to keep them from getting out of the bedroom. It was well wedged and the edges were guarded. A little while later we had two baby skunks coming toward us. To this day we have no idea how they got out of that bedroom.

I kept large dog food bags in big plastic bins so that the skunks couldn’t get into the dog food. It is not good for them, no dog food or cat food is good for a skunk. The container was kept under the stairs. Our skunk went missing one day. I was looking around the house when I spotted a white tipped tail sticking out of the dog food bag. The little monster had climbed the stairs and dropped into the dog food bag from above. Skunks are very smart animals.

Ferrets are great at finding nooks and crannies. One day in Northern Minnesota, not just one ferret, but all my ferrets went missing. How can this be? I had previously looked over that house with a fine tooth comb looking for any possible dangers and escape routes. After looking high a low for them in the house, I went outside and crawled under the house. There they were. Since I never did find how they had got down there. I placed blankets under the house near the access door. Any time they disappeared I knew exactly where they would be. After they played they run out of steam quickly. The blankets were the only warm place under the house. They also needed each other for body heat. I would just reach my hand in, pat for lumps, pull the ferrets out of the blankets, and take them back into the house; all seven of them. I now use a ferret cage with supervised playtime. A ferret cage has its advantages.

Of course, our pets need playtime and exercise time but with limits. They must have a closed-off limited play place and be supervised. It would take me days to list all the potential dangers in a home, from electrocution, getting loose, getting poisoned, or even burned. Be aware of these dangers and don’t let them have total free range of the house. Exotic pet safety comes first.

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My Ferret Book Guides and Exotic Pet Books Guides

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Wednesday, December 5, 2012

Guide to Pet Rabbits

Rabbits can make a delightful companion. Rabbits purr when they are content. Rabbits prefer to sit next to you rather than be held. Of course, there will be exceptions to this generalization. Rabbits can be litter box trained. Rabbits are inquisitive, enjoy the interaction with you, and enjoy playing with toys. Plan to spend plenty of time playing with your rabbit, at their level, on the floor.

I raised blue satins long ago. I enjoyed showing them in different rabbit shows. They were affectionate but in a different sort of way than cats and many other animals. They are smarter than many people give them credit. I found them to be truly amazing little animals. Nothing much beats the feeling of a wiggly nose in the neck-shoulder. This is a body part you develop only when you have had a baby or when you have a pet rabbit.

Rabbit Information Rabbits live to be 7 to 10 years of age. Rabbits are crepuscular, meaning they are active at dawn and twilight and sleep during the day and at night. The oldest rabbit on record was 19.

Purchasing your Rabbit

Rabbits are often given as curiosity pets or bought on impulse. Many pet rabbits are given to shelters the shelters become overpopulated and the rabbit is put to death. Many “Easter” exotic pet rabbits that are given as gifts often end up at the local shelter. Consider adopting a rabbit from the local animal shelter. Adult rabbits are often easier to train than young bunnies. Other places where a rabbit can be purchased are from the local pet store, the local feed store, or even the local 4-H club.

Make sure the rabbit has bright shiny fur. The rabbit’s fur will reflect the health of the rabbit. Check the ears to makes sure they are not dirty. Usually, a residue in the ears is a sign of ear mites. Look in the nose and around the nose for matted fur and discharge. Check the rabbit’s teeth. The teeth should be clean and even. There is a genetic condition in rabbits called malocclusion where the teeth do not grow properly. If a tooth is only broken, do not be overly concerned because a rabbit’s teeth grow continuously.

Rabbit Cages

Rabbit cages should be good sized, the bigger the better! A rabbit cage should have room for the rabbit’s food dishes, litter box, toys, and plenty of room for exercise. Rabbits should have the freedom to run in at least a small area of your house. Leave his or her cage open so he can come and go as he pleases.

A cage should be the rabbit’s special place. A rabbit will mark their cage with a few pellets to mark their territory. This is not a breakdown in rabbit litter training. Respect his territory. Clean his cage while he is out of the cage. Allow him to enter and exit on his own free will. Gently guide him into the cage. Do not grab him to take him out of his cage.

Cages with only wire floors are not good for rabbits. Rabbits do not have pads on their feet and the wire floor will injure their feet. If you do have a cage with a wire floor provide a board for him to sit on. Keep the cage floor clean and dry. Keep the board clean and dry. Rabbits love the rabbit condominiums. These cages have two levels; the floors are connected with a ramp.

Allowing Free Run of the House

Rabbits can have free run of the house once they are trained. The house must be rabbit-proofed. If the house is not completely safe, the rabbit should have constant supervision the entire time he is out of his cage. The rabbit should be introduced to free- run of the house gradually. Once he is litter boxed trained, more area can be added.

Toys and Teeth

Rabbits need toys for mental stimulation and physical exercise. Rabbits love and need toys to chew on. Rabbits must have the means to keep their constantly growing teeth worn down. Specifically, the four front teeth top and bottom. Purchase rabbit chew toys to lend an assist. Chewing hay and such also helps keep the teeth worn down.

Rabbit toys should be safe. Rabbits can ingest plastic. Cardboard boxes are great to climb into, play and chew. Old telephone books are fun to play with and shred. Parrot toys make equally good rabbit toys. Rabbits love baby toys like sturdy plastic keys. Cat cubbies and condominiums with ramps and lookouts are great for rabbits. Save the large tops off laundry detergent and laundry softener bottles. Wash these tops well. The tops are wonderful to hold on to and haul around. Rolling large balls are fun. Rotate the toys often to keep the rabbit’s interest.

Nutrition

The primary diet of the rabbit usually is commercial rabbit pellets. I would recommend limiting or avoiding these pellets. Pellets were developed for the rabbit industry, basically with fast growth and weight gain in mind. The pet rabbit, which should be spayed or neutered, will gain too much weight on pellets. Provide the rabbit with fresh water daily.

Offer your rabbit fresh vegetables. Those that are especially healthy are dark leafy vegetables and root vegetables. Make sure there are a variety of vegetables offered each day for nutritional balance. Rabbits (almost always (love carrots but also the tops of carrots. Parsley is a goldmine of nutrition. Some leafy vegetables have oxalates such as parsley, spinach, and Swiss chard and should be given in moderation. Iceberg lettuce has no nutritional value.

The rabbit must have roughage/fiber for good health. Offer the rabbit, Timothy Hay. Hay will eliminate hairballs and other blockages and aids the natural digestive process of rabbits. Timothy Hay reduces the likelihood of urinary tract problems. A small amount of alfalfa hay can be offered. Unlimited amounts of timothy hay, oat hay, and grass hay should be available throughout the day. Rabbits need access to food 24/7. Remove the soiled hay daily. Rabbits do not need any animal protein nor is it good for them.

Litter Training

Litter training is easy. Simply place the box in the corner that the rabbit has chosen. It takes time and patience. In the early stages of training place, several boxes around the area the rabbit occupies. As the rabbit catches on to remove the boxes one by one, so only a few remain. Rabbits learn much easier as they get older. Be patient with the youngun; he will get it when he is ready!

Be careful what type of litter you use. Rabbits are different from cats in that they tend to ingest some of the litter. Clay litter is dusty and can cause pneumonia. Clumping litter is ingested and clumps in the digestive tract. Corncob litter can also be ingested and can cause a lethal blockage. Paper pulp litters work well. Litters made from aspen bark works well. Citrus-based litters work great but are hard to find and can be expensive. Straw can be a safe, inexpensive litter but needs to be changed often.

Rabbit manure is an excellent fertilizer so choose a litter that can be composted. Since rabbit pellets can be used straight on the garden without worries of burning the plants, the litter can be mulched right into the garden.

Accidents outside of the litter box should be cleaned with vinegar to eliminate the odor so the rabbit does not return to eliminate again. If the rabbit urinates over the edge of the litter box, try a covered litter box. The covered litter box also works when the rabbit kicks litter outside of the litter box. One thing that turns people off on exotic mammals as pets are the odor of their waste. This is a safe and a solution that works. Great odor control for small mammals Marshall Bi-Odor Internal Waste & Urine Deodorizer (8 fl. oz.) Bi-Odor Waste & Urine Deodorizer for Rabbits, Guinea Pigs, and Small Animals.100% natural supplement deodorizes your pet's stool, urine, and body odors. Just add to your pet's food or water daily. Recommended by top breeders and veterinarians. Available in most any pet supply.

Spaying and neutering

Pet rabbits should be spayed and neutered. Altered pets are healthier and make better companions. The act of sex stimulates ovulation in the female rabbit. Many rabbits are put to death in animal shelters – be responsible and spay or neuter. You won’t have a hormone-induced emotional rabbit if you do spay or neuter. Rabbits are social animals but cannot be with a member of the same sex unless they are altered. Rabbits, unless altered can become quite aggressive, because of hormones.

Female rabbits should be spayed at 6 months of age. Males should be neutered at 5 months of age. The surgery is safe but makes sure a veterinarian with experience in operating on rabbits does the surgery. The female should have both her ovaries and uterus removed. Removing the testicles through the scrotum is a safer surgery in males rather than entering through the abdomen. I have seen a few vets recommend this approach and the only thing I can think of, is longer surgeries equal more money. Please correct me if there is a good reason for this approach to neutering.

Please consider purchasing a rabbit from a local animal shelter. You will have saved a life. Above all, enjoy your pet rabbit.

Facebook Diana Geiger

My Ferret Book Guides and Exotic Pet Books Guides

Exotic Pets: Family Guide Paperback and Kindle. Available on Kindle Unlimited!

Ferrets: A Complete Guide is available in Kindle, paperback and Kindle Unlimited!