Should Young Children Have Pet Ferrets?

Ferrets do not make good pets for small children, but again, I do not believe any small child is safe with a pet or pet safe with a child unless supervised 100% of the time. Each child matures differently, there is no set age.

Some children are mature enough for a ferret at a much younger age than some older children. You must assess the situation before bringing a ferret or ferrets into the home. You must evaluate each situation honestly. You also must appraise yourself; will I really supervise 100% of the time? Or, will I watch TV or play games on Facebook and forget the ferrets and children are together?

There have been numerous dog attacks on small children, compared to a rare ferret bite. Ferrets will sometimes bite just in play like a kitten or puppy. Baby ferrets can be a bit nippy.

It happens rarely in fact, I am not sure I have seen a factual (proven to be true and accurate) article of a ferret chewing the fingers of a baby. However, if that ferret and baby are not supervised, something horrific could occur! Ferrets may have difficulty determining the difference between the texture of a baby's hand and the texture of a toy. Both seem rubbery - much like a ferret toy.

I doubt if a ferret would injure a child out of maliciousness but accidental injuries are certainly possible. I have yet to see a mean ferret.

Newspapers and television news love to sensationalize everything. If there was one event of a ferret bite and small child, a one out of a million occurrence, that one event would get a ton of coverage whereas the peaceful, loving day to day home life of a ferret, and human family with children never get any coverage.

I was checking out the ferrets in a Minnesota mall and talking to a group of people. Out of habit, I raised a little baby ferret (kit) up to give him a kiss. He bit my lip and hung on. I had been telling everyone about the joys of having a ferret when I had one hanging from my lip. Kits, as I mentioned earlier can be a bit nippy!

Check into the legality of the ferret in your area. Laws can be different from state, county or local government Ferrets are great little pets and baby ferrets are as cute as a bug's ear. They are a blast to watch and are very funny animals. Above all, enjoy your new pet!

Learn to care for a Ferret If you are serious about owning a ferret learn all you can. The article URL below will give you an idea of how to care for a pet ferret. However, if you are making the commitment to have a ferret as part of your family it is your responsibility to learn as much as possible. I have a great book on the market with current up-to-date information. It is quite popular and has five-star reviews. It is available at Amazon (paperback and Kindle).

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My Ferret Book Guides and Exotic Pet Books Guides

Exotic Pets: Family Guide Paperback and Kindle. Available on Kindle Unlimited!

Ferrets: A Complete Guide is available in Kindle, paperback and Kindle Unlimited!

Guide to Clipping a Bird's Wings

Clipping a bird's wings the first time is not easy. You could injure the bird or even cause it to bleed to death during the wing clip. The first time I strongly suggest you professionally have the wings clipped and watch the procedure closely. This is a good way to learn how to clip wings. Each species of bird is trimmed differently. It is a safe procedure if you know how and have experience.

Larger birds such as Amazons and macaws need fewer primary feathers cut. Once the feathers are cut it is rare that they can fly, only glide down from where they are perched. Smaller birds such as a cockatiel are much more difficult to keep from flying and will need to have the majority of his primary feather clipped. Even then, the cockatiel is capable of flight; he cannot gain much altitude but can fly.

Some people will advise you to cut the feathers of only one wing. This is dangerous advice. Both sides need to be trimmed so the bird is balanced. If he falls or tries to fly off his perch, he needs to be able to glide down balanced, to prevent injury.

You will need someone to assist you in holding the bird and stretching out the wing. When you have gained experience and when you and the bird are completely used to each other, it is easy to trim the wings by yourself.

Arrange the tools you will need before you begin. You will need a pair of sharp claw cutters. Never use anything that has sharp points. The clippers must blunt ends. It is so easy to accidentally stab the bird, your assistant, or yourself. You will also need a pair of needle nose pliers, a few paper towels, and a pair of toenail clippers. Make sure the equipment you are using is clean. Have a towel to help hold the bird. You must restrict the bird so that he is not injured while flapping around. Parrots, especially large parrots, can bite and bite hard. Give a macaw a chicken bone to chew on if you do not believe me. They can take off a finger. You will need a cauterizing powder on hand to control any bleeding. (Their blood - not your blood). (Use direct pressure your own wound and clean it).

When working on your bird always act calmly, speak to him calmly, and move slowly. The idea behind the towel is to restrain him so that you can work on one wing at a time. Gently wrap the towel around him so that the opening is near the wing that you are currently trimming. Keep his face exposed so that he does not panic or smother. Remember the calmness that you employ now will determine your success at working on your bird later. Do not let him panic. Talk to him throughout the procedure in a calm voice.

The person holding the bird in the towel should firmly hold him behind the head and with the other hand; hold the bird’s lower body. The person cutting will gently stretch out the wing. First, examine the wing carefully for new growth feathers. Feathers, once they are fully-grown, are dead, like hair, and can be safely cut with no pain or bleeding. New growth feathers contain blood. These new feathers are known as blood feathers. Do not cut these blood feathers. The feathers once cut will act as a straw and siphon the blood quickly out. Bird's bodies have little blood so a bird cannot afford to lose much blood.

If you do accidentally cut a blood feather or if he breaks a blood feather accidentally you must act immediately. Use the needle nose that you prepared beforehand and pull the entire shaft of the blood feather, from the feather follicle. Pull the feather straight out. Immediately apply pressure with the paper towel. If the bleeding is not controlled with direct pressure and Kwik Stop get your bird to an avian veterinarian immediately. If you are afraid to pull out the blood feather, you should not be trimming the bird’s wings. Please leave it to a professional. It MUST be pulled out immediately.

The feathers that you are trimming are the outside feathers or primary feathers, in a small bird, you will want to trim most of the primary feathers. In large bird five to nine feathers are sufficient.

Identify each feather and cut the feather shaft as close to the wing as possible. If you cut closer to the wing tip the bird will have an aggravating feather shaft sticking out. Do not cut the wing, just the feather shaft next to the wing. Cut along the wing each long flight feather where the shaft meets the wing. Examine your bird carefully, do you see any blood?

Now that you are done with the feather trimming before you let the bird free, talk to him, and reassure him in a very loving voice. Let him free and give him his favorite treat. Spend some quality time with him and reassure him that you love him. If it is the first wing clipping watch him closely, he does not know he cannot fly.

Wings will grow back. Keep a close watch on feather growth and trim again before he is able to take flight. Many people lose their birds, when the feathers grow back, not realizing the feathers have grown back.

Clipping a bird's wings has one other advantage. You can bond with him much more quickly. Training the bird becomes much easier. If you are careful, trimming a bird's wings can have advantages and can alleviate much heartache.

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My Ferret Book Guides and Exotic Pet Books Guides

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Ferrets: A Complete Guide is available in Kindle, paperback and Kindle Unlimited!

Guide to Miniature Horses

Miniature horses have always intrigued me. I grew up on a ranch, along with a lot of other animals we raised appaloosa horses, so I have always adored horses. Heck, as a young teen that was my main mode of transportation. You'd be surprised at how far I managed to get on horseback! A miniature horse can be a household pet (with certain health requirements - important needs that affect the respiratory system if kept indoors), outdoor/indoor, or strictly outdoor.

It is important if you choose to have a miniature horse as an indoor pet that they have time to play outside for fresh air, exercise, play, healthy sunshine, and their need to run around (essential for digestion). If kept as an outdoor pet the horse will need a warm shelter that has good ventilation.

The smallest miniature horse was 10 pounds and 12 inches tall when it was born. Her name is Black Beauty. Black Beauty is considered a dwarf miniature horse and is 18.5 at the withers which would be the area of the last hairs at the end of the mane.

The average lifespan of a miniature horse is 30-40 years. Along with their good nature and what seems the natural ability to guide, plus their longevity, they make outstanding guide animals or assistance animals; guide horses for the blind.

Make sure you acquire or buy a horse that has bright shiny eyes, looks alert, healthy coat of hair, and has a good disposition. Having a horse or foal examined by a veterinarian before you purchase is an extremely good idea.

Miniature Horse Care

All horses need extensive care that can be time-consuming. If you are interested in owning a miniature horse it is essential you have the time and resources to provide this care. Veterinarian care is expensive. They will need regular check-ups, vaccinations, dental care, and worming. Any animal could become ill or injured.

Horses need daily grooming including their hooves. The hooves need to be cleaned every three to four weeks (picked out, trimmed and sanded). The hooves will need to be trimmed on a regular base. This is normally done by a farrier.

The nutritional needs are a quality grain and hay no less than twice a day. Consider the size of the horse when planning their diet. You don't want an overweight or underweight horse. Perhaps a veterinarian experienced with miniature horses can set you up with a diet plan. Remember the need for exercise to aid digestion. A horse will enjoy grazing on pasture but limit the horses access to pasture that is green, long, and abundant, the horse can flounder which causes horrible pain and can even kill your horse.

Grooming should be done on a daily bases. It really is a special time between you and your horse. Grooming is an outstanding bonding time. Brush with the hair never against it. Horses shouldn't be bathed too often since it dries out the natural oils.

Truly a horse requires about the same amount of daily care as a pet dog if a dog is being taken care of properly.

You learned about the smallest horse, the biggest horse was a Shire horse (3,300 lb).

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My Ferret Book Guides and Exotic Pet Books Guides

Exotic Pets: Family Guide Paperback and Kindle. Available on Kindle Unlimited!

Ferrets: A Complete Guide is available in Kindle, paperback and Kindle Unlimited!

Guide to Pet Rabbits

Rabbits can make a delightful companion. Rabbits purr when they are content. Rabbits prefer to sit next to you rather than be held. Of course, there will be exceptions to this generalization. Rabbits can be litter box trained. Rabbits are inquisitive, enjoy the interaction with you, and enjoy playing with toys. Plan to spend plenty of time playing with your rabbit, at their level, on the floor.

I raised blue satins long ago. I enjoyed showing them in different rabbit shows. They were affectionate but in a different sort of way than cats and many other animals. They are smarter than many people give them credit. I found them to be truly amazing little animals. Nothing much beats the feeling of a wiggly nose in the neck-shoulder. This is a body part you develop only when you have had a baby or when you have a pet rabbit.

Rabbit Information Rabbits live to be 7 to 10 years of age. Rabbits are crepuscular, meaning they are active at dawn and twilight and sleep during the day and at night. The oldest rabbit on record was 19.

Purchasing your Rabbit

Rabbits are often given as curiosity pets or bought on impulse. Many pet rabbits are given to shelters the shelters become overpopulated and the rabbit is put to death. Many “Easter” exotic pet rabbits that are given as gifts often end up at the local shelter. Consider adopting a rabbit from the local animal shelter. Adult rabbits are often easier to train than young bunnies. Other places where a rabbit can be purchased are from the local pet store, the local feed store, or even the local 4-H club.

Make sure the rabbit has bright shiny fur. The rabbit’s fur will reflect the health of the rabbit. Check the ears to makes sure they are not dirty. Usually, a residue in the ears is a sign of ear mites. Look in the nose and around the nose for matted fur and discharge. Check the rabbit’s teeth. The teeth should be clean and even. There is a genetic condition in rabbits called malocclusion where the teeth do not grow properly. If a tooth is only broken, do not be overly concerned because a rabbit’s teeth grow continuously.

Rabbit Cages

Rabbit cages should be good sized, the bigger the better! A rabbit cage should have room for the rabbit’s food dishes, litter box, toys, and plenty of room for exercise. Rabbits should have the freedom to run in at least a small area of your house. Leave his or her cage open so he can come and go as he pleases.

A cage should be the rabbit’s special place. A rabbit will mark their cage with a few pellets to mark their territory. This is not a breakdown in rabbit litter training. Respect his territory. Clean his cage while he is out of the cage. Allow him to enter and exit on his own free will. Gently guide him into the cage. Do not grab him to take him out of his cage.

Cages with only wire floors are not good for rabbits. Rabbits do not have pads on their feet and the wire floor will injure their feet. If you do have a cage with a wire floor provide a board for him to sit on. Keep the cage floor clean and dry. Keep the board clean and dry. Rabbits love the rabbit condominiums. These cages have two levels; the floors are connected with a ramp.

Allowing Free Run of the House

Rabbits can have free run of the house once they are trained. The house must be rabbit-proofed. If the house is not completely safe, the rabbit should have constant supervision the entire time he is out of his cage. The rabbit should be introduced to free- run of the house gradually. Once he is litter boxed trained, more area can be added.

Toys and Teeth

Rabbits need toys for mental stimulation and physical exercise. Rabbits love and need toys to chew on. Rabbits must have the means to keep their constantly growing teeth worn down. Specifically, the four front teeth top and bottom. Purchase rabbit chew toys to lend an assist. Chewing hay and such also helps keep the teeth worn down.

Rabbit toys should be safe. Rabbits can ingest plastic. Cardboard boxes are great to climb into, play and chew. Old telephone books are fun to play with and shred. Parrot toys make equally good rabbit toys. Rabbits love baby toys like sturdy plastic keys. Cat cubbies and condominiums with ramps and lookouts are great for rabbits. Save the large tops off laundry detergent and laundry softener bottles. Wash these tops well. The tops are wonderful to hold on to and haul around. Rolling large balls are fun. Rotate the toys often to keep the rabbit’s interest.

Nutrition

The primary diet of the rabbit usually is commercial rabbit pellets. I would recommend limiting or avoiding these pellets. Pellets were developed for the rabbit industry, basically with fast growth and weight gain in mind. The pet rabbit, which should be spayed or neutered, will gain too much weight on pellets. Provide the rabbit with fresh water daily.

Offer your rabbit fresh vegetables. Those that are especially healthy are dark leafy vegetables and root vegetables. Make sure there are a variety of vegetables offered each day for nutritional balance. Rabbits (almost always (love carrots but also the tops of carrots. Parsley is a goldmine of nutrition. Some leafy vegetables have oxalates such as parsley, spinach, and Swiss chard and should be given in moderation. Iceberg lettuce has no nutritional value.

The rabbit must have roughage/fiber for good health. Offer the rabbit, Timothy Hay. Hay will eliminate hairballs and other blockages and aids the natural digestive process of rabbits. Timothy Hay reduces the likelihood of urinary tract problems. A small amount of alfalfa hay can be offered. Unlimited amounts of timothy hay, oat hay, and grass hay should be available throughout the day. Rabbits need access to food 24/7. Remove the soiled hay daily. Rabbits do not need any animal protein nor is it good for them.

Litter Training

Litter training is easy. Simply place the box in the corner that the rabbit has chosen. It takes time and patience. In the early stages of training place, several boxes around the area the rabbit occupies. As the rabbit catches on to remove the boxes one by one, so only a few remain. Rabbits learn much easier as they get older. Be patient with the youngun; he will get it when he is ready!

Be careful what type of litter you use. Rabbits are different from cats in that they tend to ingest some of the litter. Clay litter is dusty and can cause pneumonia. Clumping litter is ingested and clumps in the digestive tract. Corncob litter can also be ingested and can cause a lethal blockage. Paper pulp litters work well. Litters made from aspen bark works well. Citrus-based litters work great but are hard to find and can be expensive. Straw can be a safe, inexpensive litter but needs to be changed often.

Rabbit manure is an excellent fertilizer so choose a litter that can be composted. Since rabbit pellets can be used straight on the garden without worries of burning the plants, the litter can be mulched right into the garden.

Accidents outside of the litter box should be cleaned with vinegar to eliminate the odor so the rabbit does not return to eliminate again. If the rabbit urinates over the edge of the litter box, try a covered litter box. The covered litter box also works when the rabbit kicks litter outside of the litter box. One thing that turns people off on exotic mammals as pets are the odor of their waste. This is a safe and a solution that works. Great odor control for small mammals Marshall Bi-Odor Internal Waste & Urine Deodorizer (8 fl. oz.) Bi-Odor Waste & Urine Deodorizer for Rabbits, Guinea Pigs, and Small Animals.100% natural supplement deodorizes your pet's stool, urine, and body odors. Just add to your pet's food or water daily. Recommended by top breeders and veterinarians. Available in most any pet supply.

Spaying and neutering

Pet rabbits should be spayed and neutered. Altered pets are healthier and make better companions. The act of sex stimulates ovulation in the female rabbit. Many rabbits are put to death in animal shelters – be responsible and spay or neuter. You won’t have a hormone-induced emotional rabbit if you do spay or neuter. Rabbits are social animals but cannot be with a member of the same sex unless they are altered. Rabbits, unless altered can become quite aggressive, because of hormones.

Female rabbits should be spayed at 6 months of age. Males should be neutered at 5 months of age. The surgery is safe but makes sure a veterinarian with experience in operating on rabbits does the surgery. The female should have both her ovaries and uterus removed. Removing the testicles through the scrotum is a safer surgery in males rather than entering through the abdomen. I have seen a few vets recommend this approach and the only thing I can think of, is longer surgeries equal more money. Please correct me if there is a good reason for this approach to neutering.

Please consider purchasing a rabbit from a local animal shelter. You will have saved a life. Above all, enjoy your pet rabbit.

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My Ferret Book Guides and Exotic Pet Books Guides

Exotic Pets: Family Guide Paperback and Kindle. Available on Kindle Unlimited!

Ferrets: A Complete Guide is available in Kindle, paperback and Kindle Unlimited!

Conure Care Guide

The Conure is a small species of parrot that is every bit as friendly, adorable, and sweet as any other parrot. The conure is highly intelligent and they can become very animated. Many conures learn to talk very well and some conures only learn a few words. The average lifespan of a wild conure is fifteen years but many have been known to live as long as thirty-five years in captivity. I think with proper care, cleanliness and nutrition your bird can live well past the average lifespan.

The conure loves your attention! They are highly social birds, and socially complex birds, and need quality time with you. They love to play and can easily learn to do tricks.

I spent hours one day watching two hand-fed baby sun conures playing together. It was delightful. They also got very jealous when I paid attention to each of them, both attempting to get more attention than the other did.

They do enjoy the company of other conures. Unless you want fertile eggs it is best to keep the genders separate.

The downside of the conure is that they can be very noisy. They can screech rather loud so they may not make a very good pet if you live in an apartment or are close to neighbors. The Nanday Conure is one of the noisier conures.

There are many varieties of conures coming from many areas such as South and Central America, parts of Mexico and even the West Indies. They range in price according to popularity and rarity.

Sun Conure

The conure is available in a wide range of colors from the brilliant, sweet sun conure to red-headed, green mitred conure. Most exotic birds have interesting color combinations.

Purchasing a Conure

A conure should be purchased from a reputable breeder, supplier, or pet store. Never buy a bird that has been wild caught. Some varieties of conures are extinct or are endangered. Exploitation and habitat loss are the reasons for their extinction and endangerment.

The conure should appear to be healthy with smooth, bright feathers, bright shiny eyes, and no discharge from the nose. The vent should be clean and free from soil. Look at the bottom of the cage to make sure the droppings are firm and well-formed. The bird should be active and aware of his surroundings. Before you buy and bring home your bird, have him tested by an avian veterinarian. These tests should include a complete blood count, (CBC) Chlamydia Screen and a culture of the throat and vent. Make sure a signed veterinarian certificate accompanies the bird.

The best pet birds are the ones that are hand-fed babies. Hand-fed babies grow up to be outstanding pets. It is usually wise to choose a bird that has been weaned and is eating on this own. Some of us have been taught to hand feed, but unless you are experienced, this could lead to torn or burned crops, infections, and other problems.

Before introducing your new bird to your other pets they should be quarantined for at least eight weeks.

Cages and Accessories

The conure needs a big cage the bigger the better. Be very cautious about the amount of spacing between bars especially since conures are smaller than other parrots and could get their heads trapped. There should be vertical and horizontal bars. Conures enjoy climbing. The cage should not be round it should be square or rectangular. The conure needs to exercise his wings and it is much easier and a lot less dangerous in a square or rectangular cage.

Supply a number of perches of different diameters and textures. Having an assortment of perches helps maximize optimal foot health. Never place the perches above the food or water dishes. The bird will eliminate in its food or water and this can be very unhealthy due to bacterial growth. Watch perch placement in relation to the cage bars so that the conure does not wear his tail by brushing against the cage constantly.

The cage and accessories need to be kept clean and sanitized. Plenty of fresh filtered water should be provided daily. If the bird has soiled in his water be sure to clean the dish and supply fresh water more frequently.

Lots of toys should be available for your conure to play with. They need physical exercise and mental stimulation. They should also have lots of playtime outside of the cage. Rotate the toys frequently so they always appear fresh and new.

Be careful on the types of materials you use for a cage cover. Conures like to chew and they will chew the cage cover; producing hanging strings that could entangle and strangle the conure.

Health and Nutrition

Seed mixes and pellet mixes are a good beginning diet for a conure. Often time’s conures will pick out the sunflowers seeds and then only eat the sunflower seeds. Sunflower seeds are fattening. So it is better to pick out the sunflower seeds and offer them as rewards or treats. Some pellet mixes come in a variety of shapes and colors. Conures are more inclined to eat the pellets if they are different. Supplement the diet with lots of fresh vegetables, fruits, greens, and proteins. Always remove fresh foods from the cage after he finishes eating. These foods can spoil and you don’t want your bird to get sick. I feed my bird most any healthy food that we eat. They should never have chocolate, caffeine, avocado, or alcohol.

I prefer to keep my bird’s wing's clipped as long as they live in a home environment. Far too often they fly out a window or door, or into windows or mirrors. If they have free flight they can accidentally fall into open toilets or open pots of boiling liquids. Many pet birds have fallen into glasses of liquid; their broken-hearted family finds them dead. There are many dangers in your home.

If you do not clip their wings you will have to supervise them 100% of the time and be 100% certain there are no dangers in your home such as a glass of water, boiling pot of water, or thousands of other potential dangers.

There are toxic fumes in your home. Never smoke cigarettes around your bird. Never use Teflon around your birds. When Teflon is overheated is emits deadly fumes. Scented candles and perfumes can be toxic. Air fresheners are bad for birds. Birds breathe differently than mammals and many things can be deadly. In addition, keep all poisonous plants out of your home and away from your bird. Do not cut tree branches for your birds that have pesticides, toxins or that are poisonous.

Conures like most birds enjoy a bath. Use a bird bathing tub or save the bucks and use a shallow dish you have lying around the house. Gently wrap the bird with a towel until partially dried. The conure will finish the drying process by preening and flapping. Do make sure the room is warm before allowing your bird to become wet.

Above all else, enjoy your pet conure!

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My Ferret Book Guides and Exotic Pet Books Guides

Exotic Pets: Family Guide Paperback and Kindle. Available on Kindle Unlimited!

Ferrets: A Complete Guide is available in Kindle, paperback and Kindle Unlimited!

Guide to African Grey Parrots

Highly sensitive and clever African grey parrots compare in intelligence to a five-year-old child, a dolphin, or a chimpanzee. They mimic speech but are also capable of using language to communicate. They can precisely copy sounds. I don’t know how many times I have answered the ring of the phone only to find it had never rung, with the African Grey in the background laughing at me. This exotic pet has copied the sound of the ding of the microwave, the neighbor’s chainsaw, and a wide variety of other noises. Since cell ringtones, hands up, I give up. This Grey parrot also mimic behaviors and mannerisms.

There are two varieties of African Greys available to the pet owners, the Congo African Grey (CAG) and the Timneh African Grey (TAG). Many people have considered the Timneh African Grey parrot as inferior to the Congo African Grey. Both birds have the same capabilities for speech and both are equally as intelligent. The Congo African Grey is larger than the Timneh African Grey. The Congo Grey has light gray feathers and the Timneh Grey has darker gray feathers. The most striking difference is the tail. The Congo Grey has a bright red tail while the Timneh Grey has a brick red, maroon, or brown tail.

Congo African Grey Parrot

Photographs courtesy of Cedar Hills Birds.

So as you can see there is very little difference in the Congo Grey and Timneh Grey. They are both exceptional birds and both make delightful companion pets! African Greys normally have a gentle nature and are delightful little clowns. In fact, purchasing the Timneh Grey has one advantage; price! Because of the Congo Grey’s popularity over the Timneh Grey, it makes them much more expensive. The African Grey is a medium-sized parrot.

Purchasing Your African Grey

Always purchase any African Grey from a reputable bird breeder, pet dealer, or pet store. Always purchase a bird that is banded. A bird without a band could be an illegal, smuggled bird. The African Grey is endangered because of illegal trade and habitat loss.

I prefer to buy birds that are hand fed babies. If raised properly they usually make exceptional friends. Unless you are experienced with hand feeding babies it is better to buy one that is already weaned to solid food. It is so easy to damage and injure a bird while hand feeding.

When you purchase/acquire your African Grey Parrot make sure the bird has smooth healthy feathers and bright shiny eyes. Check his or her vent area to make sure it is not soiled. Check the bottom of the cage for droppings, making sure they are well-formed. It is a good idea to have an avian veterinarian to check the bird and run laboratory tests to ensure the bird is healthy. These tests should include a complete blood count, (CBC) Chlamydia Screen and a culture of the throat and vent. Make sure a signed veterinarian certificate accompanies the bird.

Be certain to quarantine any parrot you bring home, for a time period of at least eight weeks, keeping them separate from other birds in your home. This is true of any exotic pet or exotic pets.

Before you purchase an African Grey be sure to ask yourself why you are purchasing one. Are you purchasing him simply because of their excellent capabilities to talk? Some Grey Parrots will never talk. This doesn’t happen often but please don’t purchase just for this reason. Purchase because they are wonderful companion pets that are intelligent. You will want to spend large amounts of quality time with them. They are highly social and sensitive. Most African Grey parrots don’t learn to talk until they’re around twelve to eighteen months old, and may even take as long as two years.

You must learn to love parrots unconditionally. You can never punish a parrot. You must let a bird be a bird. Your relationship with your African Grey will be built on love and trust. You can establish boundaries but be sure to remain consistent with these boundaries. Establishment of these rules is effective, and a way to prevent potential problems.

Cages and Accessories

Some bird cages are a danger to your parrot one example, the bars may be improperly spaced. You will find screws and other tiny parts the African Grey will work loose, the parrot may attempt to ingest the small part and choke. Parrots will chew constantly. They will chew at the bars. The paint must be non-toxic. Parrots are notorious for opening birdcage latches. The latch must be of good design and secure.

Keeping the birdcage clean and sanitized is a very important issue. Many disinfectants are horrific to birds and that is why I highly suggest using a Chlorhexidine Solution. This solution is especially effective against the resistant germs that are running rampant today. It is even effective against the swine flu. Some cages are impossible to keep clean and even harder, to sanitize. Keep this in mind when purchasing a cage. Are there out of the way areas that get crammed with gunk impossible to clean?

The cage must be the proper size for the African Grey. Rectangular and square cages are much better than a round cage. Bird cages need to be secure and big, the bigger the cage the better. When I am around to supervise my African Grey I keep him out of his cage and on a playpen. Parrots enjoy their freedom.

Because of the African Grey’s advanced intelligence, the need for play, exercise, and mental stimulation is even greater. Provide a good variety of toys and rotate them often. Your African Grey needs your love and attention. Spending a great deal of quality time with your parrot will prevent many behavioral problems. African Greys get bored!

Provide several perches with different diameters for optimal foot health. I like hardwood perches; they withstand the abuse of a parrot’s beak!

Health and Nutrition

The African Grey needs a varied, healthy diet. He will need a balanced diet of seeds, sprouted seeds, nuts, vegetables, protein, and fruits. After the parrot eats his fresh foods, make sure to remove the leftover food from his cage, because they will spoil and make the parrot ill. Always provide the African Grey with plenty of fresh water. It is a good idea to buy a quality water filter and filter the water the parrot uses. The healthier the diet the stronger your parrot’s immune system. Don’t feed your parrot chocolate, caffeine, alcohol, or avocado.

You should provide your parrot with a birdbath or spritz him with a spray bottle, and wet him or her entirely. This encourages him to preen; keeping his feathers healthy.

The toenails need to be clipped and the flight feathers may need trimming to prevent your parrot from getting injured or escaping. The beak should be trimmed when needed. Check with an avian veterinarian before attempting these procedures the first time. Watch and learn!

The African Grey should have a checkup from an avian veterinarian once a year. He should also see a vet if he is ill. Parrots are notorious for hiding illnesses. They must hide their illness in the wild otherwise they will appear weak and become prey for other animals. Be prepared for the cost of taking your bird to an avian veterinarian!

There are many dangers in your home from which you will need to protect your exotic pet. To name a few of these hazards: fumes, chemical sprays, boiling pots of water, the coating on your pots and pans, poisonous plants, and open toilets. Parrots are the same as growing children; they are curious, excited to learn, and must investigate.

Always supervise your African Grey around other animals and children. Your parrot may play just great with your dog but you just never know what could trigger them injuring each other.

Keeping your African Grey Busy and Happy

I can’t stress enough the need for this intelligent parrot’s need for attention, mental stimulation, and play. Always provide your African Grey with plenty of toys. Spend plenty of time every day interacting with your bird. You can play with your bird in so many different ways. Just like a toddler, they will drop their toys off the top of their playpen. This is saying I want you to play with me! Please interact with me. After all, parrots are highly social birds in the wild. In captivity, you are their flock or their family!

African Greys are highly vocal in the wild. This is the parrot’s nature. If you want a parrot in your home you must accept this. They screech, squawk, sing, whistle, and make noise! You must let a parrot be a parrot! They will greet each morning with a variety of noises. They will say goodbye to the light with ear piercing noise. They will get excited periodically throughout the day and go into a song and dance routine.

But, if they continually screech and squawk something is amiss! They are bored and need more attention and more varying activities. You will find that they enjoy soft music. Remember that parrots hear a whole lot better than we do please keep the bass and volume down. Parrots need to chew; this too is part of their nature. Provide safe branches for your parrot to chew on. Provide toys that are made out of safe, non-toxic wood and lava rocks to chew on.

If you treat your African Grey with plenty of love and attention you will have a wonderful companion and friend for decades to come! Above all else, enjoy your African Grey!

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Guide to Sugar Gliders

How to care for an exotic pet Sugar Glider. Sugar Gliders are a social animal and should not be raised alone. You must have more than one.

They are a marsupial much like an opossum. They rear their young in pouches like a kangaroo. Sugar Gliders can be adopted from sugar glider rescues. In fact, many people are unprepared when they purchase a sugar glider, and many gliders do end up in rescues!

Dietary Requirements

They cannot consume fat. The majority of their diet is fruit and vegetables (75%). They should receive protein (25%. They do need calcium.

These are the foods that sugar gliders like: strawberries, cantaloupe fruit jams, raisins, carrots, peas, low-fat turkey, and boiled chicken, dried fruit, apricots, peaches, pineapple, pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds, almonds, fruit juices, papaya, grapes, peaches, honeydew melon, pears, blueberries, corn, oranges, yams, sweet potatoes, peanuts (crushed), pine nuts, squash, hard-boiled eggs (leave the shells, cut the egg in half), Paw Paws, high protein baby cereal, assorted baby foods, low-fat yogurt (they especially like peach and blueberry), mealworms, wax worms, silkworms, small amounts of honey, dehydrated fruits and vegetables.

Since their food is fresh, the food needs to be removed from the cage frequently to prevent spoiling. Do not feed lightening bugs these can be deadly to many animals.

The much of their fluid intake is from the fruit in the wild. The sugar glider must have fresh water available at all times.

Vitamin deficiency can be a problem with sugar gliders. You should offer a liquid supplement in their drinking water or on their food.

Deviating from this diet, 75%/25% can be fatal to the Sugar Glider. Avoid preservatives, artificial flavors, and artificial colors. The Sugar Glider's diet is very specialized and can be quite expensive to feed. Something to take into serious consideration before you decide to bring home a sugar glider.

Housing

It is not a good idea to let your little sugar gliders to be free in a house without strict supervision. They can be injured. The little darlings also like to chew things up like your drapes, furniture, and any other chewable stuff in your house.

Do not forget that the glider is nocturnal. Sugar Gliders cannot be outside in the direct sun. The sun will injure their eyes severely.

Cages need to be good sized. The sugar glider cage can be bought or homemade. Homemade cages are relatively easy to build. The cage should be welded wire because Sugar Gliders like to climb. The size of the mesh needs to be small. A cage should be no smaller than 24" inches in diameter and 38" tall for any more than 2 animals. Bigger is better.

Place live fruit trees branches in their cage, and replace them frequently. This is for two purposes. One of these reasons is for climbing. The other reason they need to chew to keep their teeth healthy. Do not use any branches that have been sprayed!

Provide a nesting box for them to sleep in the daytime, for their comfort and to keep them out of the daylight. Fleece makes a great pillow and blanket for the sugar glider. Never use tissue (like toilet paper), sugar gliders can ingest tissue. Ingested tissue can cause intestinal blockage.

Bedding is a bit tricky; from all the fruit, their little feet can be sticky. Corncob bedding works well. Cedar is harmful, as is pine.

Legality of Sugar Gliders in the USA

I say in the US because I do not know what agency to contact outside of the United States. To find out if it legal to own a sugar glider in the US, contact the US Dept of Agriculture (Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service). Inquire if you must have a license.

This is a general overview to give you information about the Sugar Glider. Before you decide to bring one into your home, please research them entirely and find a vet that is knowledgeable.

Sugar Gliders Adoption

Please consider looking into pet adoption before purchasing a sugar glider. There are many sugar glider rescues and sugar gliders looking for a home.

Spend lots of time with your Sugar glider, and they will love to be with you. They will literally crave your attention. As you have seen, they can be costly and are time intensive. Sugar Gliders are sweet animals and make wonderful pets for the right person. Above all else enjoy your sugar glider.

Facebook Diana Geiger

My Ferret Book Guides and Exotic Pet Books Guides

Exotic Pets: Family Guide Paperback and Kindle. Available on Kindle Unlimited!

Ferrets: A Complete Guide is available in Kindle, paperback and Kindle Unlimited!